iPad Air 5th Generation Rear Camera Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

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iPad Air 5th Generation Rear Camera Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the rear camera in your iPad Air 5th Generation.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 3

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
Display edges

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the left edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 7

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 9

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 11

The right edge of the iPad contains the screen magnets, display cables, and a digitizer cable. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
The screen magnets are located directly above the SIM card slot (Wi-Fi + Cellular models only) and volume buttons.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 13

The top edge of the iPad contains the front camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 14

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached to the frame by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 15

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 16

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 17

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Step 18

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

Step 19

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw

Step 20

The display cable bracket is held in place by a small latch at the bottom.
Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.

Step 21

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.

Step 22

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 23

Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.

Step 24

Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Step 25

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the rear camera cable bracket to the frame.

Step 26

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the rear camera cable bracket.

Step 27

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera press connector.

Step 28

The rear camera is secured to the frame with strong adhesive.
Lay the iPad screen side down.
Apply a heated iOpener to the rear camera for two minutes to weaken the adhesive.

Step 29

Lay the iPad screen side up.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear camera.
If it's difficult to pry the camera up, apply a heated iOpener, wait two minutes, and try again.
Don't use isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive or you'll damage the rear camera.
Remove the rear camera.
During reassembly, you can reuse the adhesive in the frame if it's still intact and clean.
If the adhesive is damaged or dirty, use tweezers to remove it and use a small piece of Tesa tape to secure the rear camera to the frame.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement camera to the original one—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new camera before installing it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 5th Generation answers community for help.

Author

Clay Eickemeyer

Member since: 19/09/22

22501 Reputation

iPad Air 5th Generation Rear Camera Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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