iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Front Camera Assembly Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

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iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Front Camera Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the front camera assembly, including the infrared dot projector and Face ID camera, in your iPad Pro 12.9" 4th generation.

Note that the Face ID camera is paired with the logic board. You will lose Face ID functionality if you replace your Face ID camera without also installing an accompanying logic board.

This guide is written with an A2229 (Wi-Fi only) model iPad Pro. If you have the cellular model, use this guide as a general reference, but you may need to perform extra disassembly not covered in this guide.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Tools

Parts

iPad Pro 12.9" (3rd/4th Gen) Adhesive Strips

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the right edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 5

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 6

Along the frame's right edge, there are two cutouts for the screen magnets where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:
One magnet begins 2 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
The second magnet begins 3 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.

Step 7

Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Angle your pick downward and insert it no more than 2 mm near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.

Step 8

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 10

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner of the screen.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to slice the bottom edge adhesive.

Step 11

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 13

Along the left edge of the screen, there are three cutouts for cables where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:
The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
The middle cutout is exactly in the middle of the frame and is 2.5 cm long.
The lower cutout begins 4 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 14

Insert a third opening pick in the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left edge adhesive.

Step 15

Rotate your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 16

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 17

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Only insert the very tip of your pick here to avoid damaging them.
There are three strips of heat dispersion tape. Angle your pick upward as you slice here.
The front-facing camera assembly is in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging them.
Everywhere else, don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 18

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the center of the top edge to slice the adhesive, paying attention to the spots mentioned in the previous step.
If you slice farther than 9 cm, you will reach the front camera assembly and risk damaging its components.
Leave your pick inserted. You will use another pick to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 19

Insert a fourth opening pick to the right of the front camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous opening pick and 9 cm from the right edge of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 20

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently shift it around to separate it from the frame.
Don't fully remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by several cables.
If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive components mentioned in the previous steps.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Step 21

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
One 1.8 mm-long screw
One 2.0 mm-long screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 22

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
During reassembly, orient the shield so the notch faces up and to the right.

Step 23

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 24

Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
Don't pull on the screen—the ribbon cables near the bottom are still attached.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Step 25

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield:
Four 1.1 mm screws
One 2.0 mm screw

Step 26

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

Step 27

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 28

You need to place a barrier between the battery connector and logic board to disconnect the battery. Follow this step to create a battery blocker out of a playing card.
Cut two 6 mm-wide strips from a playing card to block the connections to the battery.

Step 29

Insert the card strips under each side of the battery connector.
If you can't slide the cards under the battery connector, use an opening pick to gently lift the connector to help insert the card strips.
Don't pry or lift the connector too much—it's soldered onto the logic board and may break if stressed.
During reassembly, this is a good time to apply replacement adhesive, if you have it. Follow this guide to clean your screen and apply new adhesive strips.

Step 30

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the upper cable shield:
Three 1.1 mm screws
One 2.0 mm screw

Step 31

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Step 32

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors for the IR dot-projector, front camera, and Face ID camera.

Step 33

Use blunt nose tweezers to grab and peel the left and middle front camera assembly cables from the logic board.

Step 34

Use your T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm screws securing the front camera assembly bracket.

Step 35

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.
The bracket is secured by heat-resistant epoxy which requires significant force to weaken. Work slowly and avoid prying against the surrounding components.

Step 36

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.
Use a spudger to scrape and remove any residual epoxy before reinstalling the bracket.