iPhone 11 Pro Max Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 9

iPhone 11 Pro Max Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to remove or transfer the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly in your iPhone 11 Pro Max. This assembly is affixed to the back of the display and includes a microphone, ambient light sensor, flood illuminator, and proximity sensor.

This assembly is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement.

The flood illuminator forms part of the biometric Face ID security feature, and Face ID functions will fail if the original component is damaged or incorrectly installed. Replacing it with a new part will also cause Face ID to fail, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple or an “Apple authorized” technician can restore Face ID function.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Wie soll mann das Handy ausschalten wenn das Display defekt ist oder nicht angeht?

Elias_Will Diamondblock - 12/04/20

Step 2

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 6

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 7

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 8

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 9

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Step 10

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Step 11

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 12

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 13

Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

My Y000 didn’t work on my screws. Does anyone know why?!

Ivan -

Step 14

Remove the bracket.

Step 15

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

The second connection from the battery to the daughterboard should also be disconnected even just as an extra precaution.

Keegen Payne -

Step 16

Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

What do you do if one of the screws gets stripped? I can get it out.

Zach -

Solder a paper clip to it

Akeem Scrubb -

Step 17

Remove the bracket.

Step 18

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 19

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 20

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 21

Remove the three screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:
Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
One 1.4 mm Y000 screw

Step 22

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 23

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Step 24

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

Step 25

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.
The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 26

If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

Step 27

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Step 28

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Pro Max Answers community for help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406808 Reputation

4 comments

Face id nit conpatible after replacement. Was I supposed to delete the face id previous repair and then set it up again ?!

Michaela M - 08/05/21

If you replaced the part face id will not work. If you read the introduction to this guide (above at the top) it tells you this.

Gerald Bowen - 10/05/21

Is it possible to replace only the ear piece by soldering a new one? Will face ID still work. Obviosuly if you remove the entire module it won’t work, but what about just the earpeice. I’m aware it wil require desoldering the piece.

Mario Villatoro -

I know this is years late bro, but the answer for the next bloke is yes, you can. Just needs soldering tools/skills. There are several Youtube videos with instructions :)

Felipe Leal -