iPhone 6s Plus Rear Case Replacement

Step 1

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - 30/12/17

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - 02/01/18

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/01/18

Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

grazie

Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

thank you

Daniele - 17/03/18

You’ve probably received your answer by now but for future enquirers, it does help the process of taking the screen off if heat is applied to the screen. If you have a hair Dryer use that on a low setting to heat the edges of the screen until it’s almost too hot to touch then slip very thin metal spudger around the edge to cut the adhesive. The carefully lift the screen with the help of the spudger and continue with your repair

Cheers Wayne

Wayne Lyell - 01/05/19

How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

integritybuilders - 18/03/18

When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

Jeff Suovanen - 19/03/18

So I need to empty the battery to zero percent?

johnpatrickanat - 08/04/19

Below 25%, exactly as stated in the instructions. There’s no benefit to draining it further than that, and in fact you’ll slightly shorten the service life of the battery by draining it all the way to zero. Follow the instructions exactly as written—if you go off-script, you’re a lot more likely to break something.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/04/19

So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it

shellietheleo - 04/07/19

I would initially recommend a well-lit, comfortable area and placing the screws on a white piece of paper with the screw sizes written down (apparently there are magnetic mats, also). Also, I found placing the phone on a paper towel is good so that if a screw is dropped, it will lessen the likelihood of bouncing away.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Step 2

Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.

The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.

I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive

garbage911garbage - 29/04/19

I didn’t have an iOpener, nor a heat gun; however I do have a small personal size hand pillow filled with feed corn. Two minutes in the nuke machine got it plenty warm, and smelled like fresh popcorn too.

bradiac - 22/06/19

I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.

Mark Taberham - 20/02/21

Step 3

Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - 15/04/17

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - 30/12/17

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - 17/01/18

I broke my iphone screen in the first step!

Pierre Bertram - 06/10/19

This screen removal step got more wrestley than I anticipated. The adhesive is quite strong. I used a flat-ended razor tool that I have to begin the prying - I don’t know how I would have got it started without this.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Ok - just got my battery replacement kit and even got the opening kit for added insurance just in case. Settled down to startwork after carefully cleaning my (immaculate) screen - no scratches or anything, with rubbing alcohol, removing screws and warming with a hair dryer, only to find the suction cup provided in the kit is worse than useless! It won’t stick to the screen well at all. When it does - it pops off at the lightest pull :-( Now what do I do to get this started?!

CoffeeCup -

Step 4

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - 23/06/17

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten - 11/07/17

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - 09/09/17

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - 13/01/18

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - 22/01/18

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

Brent - 14/03/18

If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.

Jeffrey - 22/11/18

Same thing happened to me. This should be a big warning in these steps. If you have a small to moderate crack in you screen, but you weren’t planning on replacing the screen at the same time as another repair inside, there’s a risk of damaging the screen further and making it inoperable.

DW7ACCT -

I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.

gordojenkins - 07/07/19

I gave up with the suction cup as it wasn't working for me with a cracked screen. Having heated the bottom of the phone with a hair dryer with a high heat for a good minute or so, I used a safety scraper (essentially a razor blade in a holder) along the bottom of the phone to separate the screen from the body of the phone. I used the scraper vertically between the bottom of the screen and the phone body and levered it sufficiently so that I could fit the spudger between the screen and the phone body. My experience when I first used the spudger around the frame was that the cracks in the screen caused the screen glass to separate from the frame, so I had to re-do it and ensure that the screen frame was separated from the phone body.

Safety scraper:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unger-CD170-Win...

Mark Taberham - 20/02/21

Step 5

The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.
While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - 12/07/17

When warmed, the suction cup was useless. Using the tip of a knife blade, was able to get it separated enough to insert spudger.

hutland - 09/02/20

For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.

After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.

Thanks for reading.

- Mr Gamma

Gamma Pailvan -

I also struggled with this step. Lots of heat, 3 different suction cups, I finally could see a small gap... much too thin to fit even a piece of paper into. A video on another site said it was the easy way. I used a sharp craft knife barely into the seam between metal and glass and pried slightly. And it started up. Still a pain freeing the rest of the adhesive. Perhaps the adhesive really sets up over the course of 5 years? I have it hinged open now, so onto the next steps.

Mark Tollefson -

Step 6

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

Bart Blanckaert - 13/03/18

Step 7

While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

Step 8

Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

Step 9

Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.
Slide the spudger up the right side.

Step 10

Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.
Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

Step 11

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/01/18

Step 12

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?

Smiley McSmilebot - 22/01/20

In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.

Ben Estabrook -

Step 13

Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
One 2.9 mm screw
One 2.3 mm screw
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

Joe Teichert - 04/03/18

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Benjamin Stalcup - 07/03/18

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Jack Daniel - 18/03/18

Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.

Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.

Harry McDow - 25/04/19

Ended up employing a Philips #0 from a regular jeweler/precision kit on the 2.3mm screw. Bits seem a bit off for this step.

Vance Bell - 17/04/20

Step 14

Remove the battery connector bracket.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

Coupon Crazy - 01/06/18

Auch die Abdeckung ist angeklebt. Also mit etwas Vorsicht und Geduld rangehen.

eckhardd@icloud.com - 17/12/20

If you have forgotten your High School German -

The cover is also glued. So take some care and patience.

Glen Paetz - 31/03/21

My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.

Victor Ng-Thow-Hing -

Step 15

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

Step 16

Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

Step 17

Remove the following Phillips screws:
Three 1.3 mm screws
One 1.6 mm screw
One 3.0 mm screw
During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - 16/03/17

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor - 22/07/17

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - 03/10/17

To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

Christa - 23/06/18

Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

Tom - 28/08/18

Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

Shiva Sharma - 14/07/18

I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

Tom - 28/08/18

I didn’t think this was necessary, bit I see it relieves stress on the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector; I did not disconnect the display connector nor remove the display screen.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

I second this finding. I too did not remove the screws nor the bracket. The cables look a bit stretched, but certainly not strained.

-Gamma

Gamma Pailvan -

This step of separating the two parts of the phone deserves careful consideration. In my case, I had propped up the display assembly with a box and rubber bands. However, only 2 of the battery adhesive strips came off easily. The effort to remove the battery with the display assembly attached was not a good move on my part. I jarred the ear speaker cable and after reassembly I had no camera or working ear speaker. Taking off these 5 screws and removing the three cables is not difficult. My suggestion: is you have ANY trouble removing the 3 battery adhesive strips, STOP, separate the two components, and then continue with the battery removal. Don’t struggle removing the battery with the display assembly attached. (I replaced the ear speaker cable, and all is working now)

Richard Perl - 15/02/20

Thanks for this tip! I am having a really hard time removing this plate because one of the screw heads are stripped. So I’ll try removing the battery adhesive strips first to see if I can get the battery out without removing the screen.

nathanfunk - 27/06/20

Use dixie cups and label them for each part you take out. You can stack the dixie cups to keep them in order.

Bradley Nolen - 26/06/20

I skipped this for the battery removal, but when I went to replace the seal, I had to remove it anyway.

dgol69 -

I lost the bottom left screw of the five in this step - anyone know if it’sgoing to cause a problem? ‘m going to go ahead and put thephone back together anyway - wil report back withresult

CoffeeCup -

OMG…. SO excited! It works! Seems that missing screw wasn’t an issue. The reason I’m so excited is, I’m a senior and have bever attempted anything like this before and was worried I’d mess it up, or it just wouuldn’t work for whatever reason. I know I never would have tried if it weren’t for finding this site, the great service, parts to do it and the videos/guides. Thank you so much ifixit. :-)

CoffeeCup -

I changed the battery, without removing the screen, when I closed the phone the front camera and speaker no longer work.

Mr T -

Step 18

Remove the display cable bracket.

Be careful on this step: with my iPhone, one of the connectors (the home button/fingerprint sensor) was stuck to the underside of the bracket and I almost strained its cable.

kevin - 15/02/21

Step 19

Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

I found prying from the right to be better

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Is there any need for this step if only the Battery is replaced

mrrreid - 29/04/20

I don’t recommend using the spudger for this as you can do more damage that way. I scratched the black square thing underneath.

Laura Houghton - 05/08/20

I managed to remove the battery without disconnecting and removing the display first. This avoids possible difficulties in these steps (see below).

One has to be careful that, while fighting with the battery strips, the display remains in its 90º position

alfasw33 - 22/03/21

Step 20

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - 28/10/17

“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

Jeffrey Robinos - 28/09/18

Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

Norbert Andreas Richartz - 16/11/18

This part was a very frustrating experience for me. I thought that my replacement screen was just poor quality, as it worked when it wanted to work. Pressing home/power repeatedly sometimes brought it back, charging to 100% also brought it back. The actual problem was that it is very easy to get some of the gasket material caught in the connector, which I couldn’t see until I used my jeweler's loupe. I used 91% alcohol to carefully clean all of this off until all pins were shiny, and it took about 6 tries to get it right. However, the screen’s been running well for 2 days now. I already bought another screen replacement which I have for a spare as it was 100% not the problem.

chumblyf - 06/05/20

I followed all the steps, so the sound is missed. What could be happened? thanks a lot. Fabio Balbino

Fabio Balbino - 17/06/20

Step 21

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Disconnect the home button/fingerprint sensor cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - 18/02/17

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - 18/02/17

You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD

drgon - 23/02/17

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - 05/10/17

Thanks for the tip. Same thing happened to me, some leftover adhesive was in the way!

Lua Tech -

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Brent - 14/03/18

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

shoeib - 18/03/18

What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

Mine came loose somehow?

Jason Engelsman - 16/07/18

I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

Jason Engelsman - 16/07/18

i pressed on the center of the digitizer connection. and the bottom half of my screen didnt work. i then took that same front panel assembly and tried to install it on another old iphone 6s+ and i had the same issue.

can i still fix it?

what exactly is broken now?

alejandro rueda - 28/01/19

@mynameisoli Honestly this just sounds like a defective screen to me, but it’s hard to say for sure. Look closely at the connector at the end of the ribbon cable and check it for damage. If it’s slightly bent/curved, all the pins won’t make good contact in the socket. You can try bending it back so it lays flat, but you have to be very careful not to damage the connector or contaminate the pins with skin oils, so it’s tricky—and it may be harder to return as “defective” if you mess up the connector. So try this at your own risk. Apart from that, I would just return it and try a different display. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 29/01/19

The 6s plus screen repair kit i bought has the wrong size cable here on the replacement part. SOL.

Alex Richardson - 07/03/20

Once I accidentally disconnected the display assembly cables before disconnecting the battery. Now the home button and fingerprint sensor doesn’t work. Any solution to this?? I have tried a different home button, even that doesn’t work.

a3roar - 06/06/20

I changed the battery on my iPhone and put all together again and charged it. When I pressed the home button the lock screen with my picture appeared and when I pressed it again the screen with the digits from 0 to 9 appeared. I was asked to enter my passcode, but when I did that nothing happened, the phone did not open.

What could be wrong? Is the home screen cable not fully connected or what could be the reason for this?

THORDUR JOHANNESSON -

Step 22

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

Superior Office Systems - 05/12/17

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - 29/01/18

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen - 30/01/18

If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

Matthew Olwell - 16/04/19

These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!

Chris Enloe - 21/05/19

Step 23

Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws.

If like me you are only wanting to clean out the speaker, you do not need to do this step. You can skip to step 50

Brad “Bradster48” Mason - 20/12/17

Mine had no tape there

Gustavo Delfino -

Step 24

Remove the following Phillips screws over the camera bracket:
One 1.9 mm screw
One 2.4 mm screw

Step 25

Remove the iSight camera bracket.

When replacing the bracket be sure to get the other end of the NFC bracket included with the right hand screw.

Thomas Hayes -

Step 26

Disconnect the iSight camera connector from its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to pry up only the connector and not the socket on the logic board.

If necessary, the sticky patch on top f the connector should be removed. Helped my case a lot :)

Alexander Leuschner - 08/08/18

Step 27

Insert the flat end of the spudger between the iSight camera and rear casing.
Gently pry the camera out from its housing.

Step 28

Remove the iSight camera.

Hi ,

Thanks a lot for your tutorial !

Can you explain how can we change the lens of the camera ?

Thanks ;)

rocofolie - 18/05/16

Step 29

Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM tray.
Press to eject the SIM tray.

Step 30

Remove the SIM tray.
When reinserting the SIM tray, be sure to orient the tray such that the SIM eject hole is on the bottom.

Step 31

Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.

The silver end of the NFC bracket goes here. The gold floppy end goes under the camera bracket.

Thomas Hayes -

Step 32

Remove the NFC bracket.

Step 33

Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the audio control cable bracket to the logic board.

Step 34

Remove the audio control cable bracket.

Wo kommt den der “6 s Plus Bluetooth Flex” überhaubthin bitte ?

Also "das = https://www.ebay.de/itm/123934065844

Mystery Shopper - 04/05/20

Step 35

Disconnect the audio control cable by prying its connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 36

Disconnect the cellular antenna cable by prying its connector straight up from its respective socket on the logic board.

how do you plug this cable back in? any tips for lining up with the socket? i can't get it to stay :(

kapluni - 05/09/17

Hold the cable with your tweezers and line the connector up over the socket as perfectly as you can, and then press straight down on it with the flat end of your spudger. Should snap into place with a bit of force.

Jeff Suovanen - 25/01/18

My problem when I pull the cable in the socket i shocked bot of them pull togeher the cable and the socket in the logic board the small circle i cry how to fix pleasss help mee

Darrel Alan - 26/04/20

The cable broke instead of coming out of the socket. Oh well. GG

hiddenanddangerous2009 - 08/08/20

My phone doesn't have a cable running here

TJ Anderson - 31/01/21

Step 37

Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable by prying its connector up from the logic board.

Step 38

Disconnect the power button flex cable from its socket on the logic board.

Don’t forget this guy when you’re putting it back in! you’ll have to undo a bunch of screws

Cassandra Vil - 28/06/18

Step 39

Disconnect the antenna cable by prying it up from the logic board.

This is not a Lightning connector - its a radio connector.

NorthernBigDummy - 06/02/18

Step 40

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector flex cable from the logic board.

From here you can skip ahead to step 50.

Mark Cousins - 10/12/16

Step 41

Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board.

This is super vague. Doesn’t explain exactly HOW to remove the cable from the clips, like it does in step 44. Slightly damaged my cable because I didn’t know how to remove it or the nature of the clip.

Mason Rogers - 11/04/18

Step 42

Remove the following screws:
One 1.3 mm Phillips screw
One 2.6 mm Phillips screw
One 2.2 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Use can use a spudger in a pinch to dislodge the 2.2mm standoff screw. This was the most difficult screw in the phone. A Phillips bit will not work.

mechamster - 11/11/17

What do we call / name this bracket?

B. Jansen - 01/01/19

Step 43

Remove the bracket.

Step 44

Deroute the upper left cellular antenna cable from the first logic board clip by nudging it out from under the clip, towards the battery.

Step 45

Continue derouting the cellular antenna cable from the second and third logic board clips.
Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently pry the cellular antenna cable from the middle logic board clip.
Don't try to remove it by pulling on the cable, as it will tear easily.
In order for the cable to reach its socket on the logic board, you must route it above the logic board and underneath the audio control flex cable, as shown in the first photo.

My clip in the middle is not removing no matter how hard i pry or what i do, any help??

David Gray - 12/06/20

Step 46

Remove the final 2.0 mm Phillips screw directly below the SIM card reader.

Step 47

Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.

Step 48

Tip the logic board up to a vertical position to expose the single antenna connector on the underside, near the top edge of the board.
Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board.

Step 49

Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.
Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board.

Ugh, the socket connector separated from the back of the rigid cable. Two wires are still attached to the socket connector, but I’m guessing I’ll need to purchase a replacement WiFi/Bluetooth antenna cable at some point. I hope you sell these too?

NorthernBigDummy - 06/02/18

**Update** I used the tiniest drop of super glue with activator on both the connector and cable. It seems to be holding! Will reassemble and see if it works. Lucky for me, you sell the replacement cable for $14.99 if my cheap bastard fix fails :)

NorthernBigDummy - 06/02/18

**Update #2** Using super glue on the upper left wi-fi connector seems to have worked, both my bluetooth and wi-fi are working well post-repair.

NorthernBigDummy - 06/02/18

Step 50

Remove the logic board.

Step 51

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker.

Step 52

Remove the following three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine cable bracket:
Two 3.5 mm screws
One 2.7 mm screw
Remove the bracket.

Step 53

Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
Two 2.7 mm screws
One 2.5 mm screw
One 1.5 mm screw
One 1.7 mm screw

Step 54

Deroute the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from its rubber sleeve.
If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access.

This step isn't necessary. You can leave this cable in place.

Mark Cousins - 10/12/16

yes totally unnecessary to remove this or the board at all.

Smartfone NI - 02/08/17

Dégagez le câble d'antenne Wi-Fi diversity du clip du connecteur de mise à la terre (italique = description à vérifier !)

Apy Ben - 20/02/19

Step 55

Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from the Lightning connector flex cable.

Step 56

Remove the final 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the rear case.

Bei mir war da nur eine Schraube !

Boris Alt - 07/05/19

Beim mir ist da nur eine, Schraube. Auf dem Bild auch.

Matze Diamond - 28/01/20

Step 57

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the speaker assembly out of its housing.
Remove the speaker assembly.

If you’re following the quickest past, don’t pull it off, cable of Wi-fi Anten is still attached

Martin - 02/09/20

Step 58

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable from the lower flex cable.

Maybe it would be best to have people remove the screws first? Otherwise prying the flex cable (which is very thin and not super flexible) may result in it breaking from the Taptic Engine. Just a thought.

Kayne Caplinger - 21/08/19

The cable is plenty flexible, hence the name. ;) Remove the screws first if you like, but there’s no harm in doing it this way.

Jeff Suovanen - 26/08/19

Step 59

Remove the two Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case:
One 3.1 mm screw
One 2.1 mm screw
Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 60

Peel back the tape over the screw securing the Lightning connector flex cable to the lip of the phone.

Step 61

Remove the following five Phillips screws:
One 2.9 mm screw
One 1.9 mm screw
One 1.5 mm screw
One 1.6 mm screw
One 1.3 mm screw set in the bottom edge of the rear case

Step 62

Prepare an iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the Lightning connector flex cable in place.
Wait about a minute for the adhesive to soften before removing the iOpener and continuing.

Step 63

Insert an opening pick under the Lightning connector flex cable and slowly slice through the adhesive holding the cable to the rear case.

Step 64

Continue sliding the opening pick underneath the flex cable.

Step 65

Use an opening pick to pry the left microphone off the edge of the rear case.

make sure you don’t remove the little black plastic part that goes between the microphone & case, it was firmly attached to the left microphone.

Rhonda Tregay - 20/01/18

The instructions don't mention it, but the photo shows the microphone by the headphone jack also being eased back, which we did have to do; agree with Rhonda's comment, and separating those parts took persistence.

Matthew Dearden - 07/05/22

Step 66

Insert the point of a spudger into the headphone jack and wiggle it slightly to loosen the headphone jack from the bottom edge of the case.

Step 67

Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
If your replacement part did not come with a headphone jack gasket, use tweezers to remove the gasket from the old part and transfer it to the replacement part.
Before re-installation, use a spudger to scour any remaining adhesive residue from the rear case. You can use high concentration isopropyl alcohol to help with the process.

Save the sealant rubber from the jack and the lighting connector if the new one does not have it.

István Borsányi - 16/05/20

Step 68

Remove the following four Phillips screws:
Three 2.0 mm screws holding the power button bracket in place
One 1.3 mm Phillips screw over the flash and microphone bracket

Flash/microphone bracket on the second (and first too) picture needs to go in the socket located on the frame’s top (therefore the top side of the bracket is not visible like in steps 23-27), not lay on top of the socket. I had to come back to this later during my reassembly.

domin8 - 19/12/17

Step 69

Remove the flash/microphone bracket.

Step 70

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

Step 71

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the power button flex cable off the rear case.

Step 72

Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone portion of the flex cable and gently pry it off of the rear case.

Step 73

Slide an opening pick underneath the power button flex cable to pry the cable off the rear case.

Step 74

Remove the power button flex cable.

Step 75

Gently nudge the power button cover out of its slot in the rear case.

Step 76

Remove the button cover.

Step 77

Remove the following screws holding the cellular antenna in place:
One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

You need to remove a black sticker to reveal the 1.7 mm Philips screw (Orange circle on the picture).

jimmy_desertwolf - 16/02/20

Step 78

Remove the cellular antenna.

Step 79

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna to the rear case.

Step 80

Remove the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna.

Step 81

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

Step 82

Gather all three tips of the battery adhesive strips in one hand.
Be sure to not wrinkle any of the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.

Step 83

Pull the adhesive strips straight out, keeping the strips flat and wide until they are completely removed. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less.
The strips will stretch to many times their original length. Continue pulling until you completely remove all three strips.
Hold down the battery with one hand as you're pulling, or the elastic strips will fling the battery from the phone once they're separated from the rear case.

Step 84

If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.
After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to tear through any remaining adhesive.

Step 85

Remove the battery.

Step 86

Remove the three 2.4 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.

Step 87

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the volume control flex cable.

Step 88

Remove the volume control flex cable.
During reassembly, put the volume control switch in place first, followed by the mute switch.

Step 89

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the volume control button covers out of their slots in the rear case.

Step 90

Remove the volume control button covers.

Step 91

Only the rear case remains.

At this point please check your replacement case and the left over case. Check if the brackets/clips on the sides are present on the replacement case. If not, remove from the left over case and transfer them to the replacement case. You will need these brackets/clips in order for the screen to sit tight on the phone.

Jammy Lee - 18/06/18

Does the plate for the apple logo need to be removed from the old housing and placed new housing? Not sure if the non OEM plate that comes with my new housing will interfere with anything like Apple Pay

wallace -

iPhone 6s Plus Rear Case Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

6 comments