iPhone 8 Plus Battery Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb

Comments: 73

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to revive your iPhone 8 Plus with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to fully detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for detaching the display. Additionally, while it’s possible to remove the adhesive strips securing the battery as soon as you open the phone, this guide recommends first removing the Taptic Engine. Doing so reduces the risk of breaking the lower adhesive strips accidentally, either by snagging them on the Taptic Engine, or by pulling the strips at too sharp of an angle.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

what do I do about super stripped screws?

Ean Palacios - 13/09/20

I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.

Adam O'Camb - 29/03/21

Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit

Adam Palmer - 26/12/20

Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.

Kyle Luksa - 26/03/21

Step 2

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and for the bottom of the screen to open.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Warning ! If you pull too hard (reheat the underside of the display again), you create an gap of air between the glass and the lcd display !

When you replace the display assembly you end up with gray stains on the display.

Result: you have to buy a new display (assembly).

Arnoud - 27/09/20

Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.

Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.

Chris - 30/09/20

I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.

Kyle Luksa - 26/03/21

I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.

Ben Vinnerd -

I can’t get the single suction cup to work. Hate being stuck on the simplest step!

Donny -

My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.

Michael Scroop -

Step 6

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.

Kenneth Ewald, Sr. -

In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.

Kenneth Ewald, Sr. -

this was by far the most difficult part. be diligent and follow the “firm and constant pressure” guide... the “gap” will be extremely “slight”. you will be able to slide a corner of the pry tool even if you cannot see the gap.

Colleen V -

Step 7

Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.

Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(

The instruction should be:

“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”

Leonardo Piga -

Step 8

Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.

Jessica Kirsh - 05/09/20

Step 9

Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

Step 10

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 11

Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.

Gerdschi D -

Step 12

Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Step 13

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.

Matze Diamond - 13/10/19

Das ist falsch. Wenn man auf das iPhone sieht, ist der Home Button unten. Auf dem Photo ist deutlich sichtbar, dass die linke Seite angehoben wird.

Hans -

Step 14

Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
Two 1.3 mm screws
One 1.4 mm screw
One 2.7 mm screw
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.

Jack Harry -

Step 15

Remove the lower display cable bracket.

Step 16

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).

browniestarmite - 13/01/19

Step 17

Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.

Here is my problem:

When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?

smikalsen - 18/10/20

Hi,

Is your problem solved?

Daniel Leprince - 11/01/21

Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.

Chris Cerrudo -

Step 18

Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.

Jessica Kirsh - 08/09/20

Step 19

Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:
One 1.0 mm screw
One 1.2 mm screw

una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???

Matteo Carachino - 25/09/19

Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire

Claire Miesch - 26/09/19

The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?

peter frommer - 15/04/20

Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.

hypercarduser - 26/04/20

My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.

Christopher Shane Gripp -

There is no such thing as a trigger point y000 screwdriver. Why couldn't they use Philips like the rest of the screws.Nobody knows what these trips point y000 even look like. this is a scam to force you to buy a new phone.

Al tb -

Step 20

Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 21

Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

What happens is this strip is torn and how does one fix it

Mijinyawa Dauda -

Step 22

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?

Paul Santora -

Step 23

Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
One 2.6 mm Phillips screw
One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de 2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.

nilsplackle - 06/12/20

Step 24

Remove the bracket.

Step 25

Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker.
This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.

should i be worried if the piece with the two holes broke off

Robert Quinn - 10/05/20

Step 26

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.

Step 27

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port.
Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.

Dan Putnam - 07/04/20

I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.

Lucas - 17/11/20

I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.

David Hampson - 13/04/21

The little connector in the first picture ripped the component off the circuit board when trying to pry it up so be careful. I’m guessing it’s like a previous poster said and the socket is stronger than the glue/material that holds the component to the PCB. This was on a new board during disassembly trying to locate a potential problem. Phone still workings with WiFi and cellular normally but the cellular signal is down about 1/3 on average wherever I am.

J.Garrecht Metzger -

Step 28

Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.

Mark Hintze - 12/05/20

Step 29

Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:
Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws
One 2.4 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 30

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

Step 31

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 32

The iPhone 8 Plus's battery is secured by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two at the top, and two at the bottom.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the front surface of the battery.

Step 33

Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools.

Step 34

Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive.
Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible, without snagging it on any of the iPhone's other components.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 35

Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips.
Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.
If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

the upper ones usually break off. be advised to heat the phone up a little before trying

hardijs - 05/07/19

I can’t even find the upper ones. Tore into the battery cover trying.

Kenneth Ewald, Sr. -

Unfortunately both bottom and upper strips had been broken after pulling a little. Maybe I have pulled in a wrong way or maybe they had been more brittle as the time passes.

Mustafa Kahraman -

Step 36

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s). After about a minute, gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.
If the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. This will help soften the adhesive.
Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
Alternatively, thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. Do not deform or damage the battery.
To protect your fingers, wear gloves or wrap the string ends around a tool (such as the two screwdriver handles shown in the image).

If you use isopropyl alcohol, use it very sparingly. The black (insulating?) paint on the wireless charging coil is readily alcohol-soluble.

Scott Boyce - 23/03/21

To add to Scott Boyce's comment, if you use too much alcohol, it may seep behind the camera glass, causing condensation behind it, and blurring the camera. With some time, it seems to all dry out.

Aidan Brown -

Unfortunately both bottom and upper strips had been broken after pulling a little. After that, removing the battery was a nightmare. I used pry tools to lift the battery out beginning from the bottom side. I heated bottom of the battery via heated air blower as lifted, used dental floss etc. Battery is crashed while lifting via pry tools, its tip had been burned, a strong odor reveled. After a though fight, removed the battery. I probably damaged wireless charging coil, its black protective shield was peeled place to place. I hadn't removed out the taptic engine before replacing battery, so I worried about it to be damaged because I applied some force to battery from bottom side initially. After replacement, everything seems working flawless; battery, home button, touch operations, NFC etc. I haven't used wireless charge before and not tried yet after replacement operation; I hope it also works and everything continues to work flawless.

Mustafa Kahraman -

Step 37

Remove the battery from the iPhone.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, slide off and remove the sleeve before installation.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

I managed to remove the battery after taking the display off saving the time and trouble of removing all of the other items. If you try and fail, then follow the instructions and remove all of the parts. I did this by pulling on the white strips at the taptic engine end. The outside one is most important. Pull the strip with your entire finger and thumb on the white strip (don’t pull the black part). Pull slowly and gently out and move left and right. Very slowly. I was able to remove it. The inner one tore out - all the better if you can get both out. You can do this on the other end as well. Both mine tore out. Use an old credit card, cut it the width of the battery. Push under the corner until you’re under the battery. Do NOT pry up on the battery but let the credit card bend flat to the bottom. You can minimize how much the battery bends. As you push under 1/4 the way to 1/2 way it’ll get easier. If you get the strips off the other end, all the better. Apply heat from underneath the entire process.

Bill Auerbach -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

178568 Reputation

26 comments

Do I have to remove the display to replace the battery? Or can I leave the display in

Peter - 28/12/17

You can leave the display connected and skip steps 15-20, as long as you’re careful to support the display so as not to damage the display cables while you work.

Jeff Suovanen - 03/01/18

Don’t do it,you can EASILY RIP LCD RIBBON CABLE

Vegeta Barrett - 18/06/18

Are there any statistics or even educated guesses about how many people are able to successfully complete this repair? Although it is rated as “moderate” in terms of difficulty, I would rate it as more than just moderate. I tried to replace the battery on a much older iPhone and wound up with a brick. Is an 8 plus easier than an iPhone 3 or 4? Where might one find such statistics?

d10boe - 22/08/20

It takes a little time to learn how to do certain things. As always a video tutorial is better than the picture only version. But if you follow one of their teardowns maybe you can get an idea of how to do some of the more intricate things like the battery adhesive removal. I do this as a hobby and it took a while to perfect, but my first 2 repairs went well and I didn't brick my phone or my iPad so guess I was doing some of the basics right.

Don't be discouraged. Watch some YT vids. Then work up the courage to try again. Good Luck!

jasonmfrederick - 09/09/22

The new internal configuration was a little more difficult but take your time and have a rice bag or iOpener for the additional adhesive in these models.

The battery adhesive is always problematic for me but the dental floss tip in this guide worked great!

Russ Rehm - 13/12/20

Can I make my own adhesive tape by trimming standard 3M double-sided tape to fit?

Joel - 30/01/21

If you have a template and a really fine exacto knife maybe.
But it's better to buy the adhesive or use B-7000 or something similar.

jasonmfrederick -

Home Button Not Working After Battery Replacement

Bacon - 05/03/21

Just finished my battery replacement.

My thoughts:

Nerve racking regarding the delicate hardware and the danger of lithium battery, but i’m glad I read through the guide and did each step slowly.

The guide is very well written, I think the video tutorial is too quick, and could be a bit more in depth and at a pace we can follow along with. I used a youtube tutorial to complement the written guide.

The suction cap didn’t work well so had to run the pick around a bit until I could get under, I think a heavier duty clamp would have been better.

I used a wheat heat bag however please be warned it does create condensation so have paper towel as a barrier between the heat pack and the phone, I’m unsure if the iFixit brand one behaves the same once heated..

My phone is 5 years old so with all the heating in the world the battery adhesive would not release as a peel, heaps of points for the last resort method of using dental floss, it worked flawlessly

Thanks iFixit :)

Jamie LB -

Second major repair, battery, after screen last year, I term IFixIt “The Best”.; not only parts with appropriate tool kits, but also detailed, accurate instructions. Parts are the EASY part of this type repair, the kit approach with well written, illustrated, instructions make this a do-it-yourself capable repair. Well, Done, IFixIt!

joewilliamsco -

I’ve replaced batteries on several different iPhones/ipads and the ONLY problem I’ve ever had with a repair is the $#$?! adhesive strips. it doesn’t matter how much heat or patience I use, they always tear and snap back under the battery.

Louis Lamoureux -

Just made it in 100 minutes. Most of the time was spent in removing battery itself, due to adhesive stripes. They torn from the center, I could see the tear growing from inside. Dental floss and iOpener have been very successful even though very long. I never thought that my dental floss would have such an use. Like many users, a flawless removal of those $@$*!& battery strips never happened to me, whatever the care I take, or the veeeeeeery slow speed I pull.

Before to attach the final brackets on screen connectors, I dared turn on and checked the antennas (I had a doubt with this antenna strip reconnection and the front camera connector) so I tested the screen, the touchID, the front camera and checked that all signals were present. Then shut off again and closed the device.

works fine, no flaws like battery not recognized or anything like this. I now have a faster iPhone probably because iOS does not slow down anymore due to weaker battery capacity. Thanks to iFixit team for offering this opportunity.

farreyrol -

After replacing the battery, the audio from games is not audible over speaker. All other apps using the speaker seem to work: Phone, Clock (alarm), FaceTime, Skype, and YouTube are all audible. Could the issue with games be caused a poor seating of any of the connectors detached and re-attached in the battery replacement process?

dv30fps -

Problem solved: The external sound switch (near the volume up/down buttons) had flipped to off when I removed or re-installed the drop protection case. Why it affected only games seems strange.

dv30fps -

Touch ID stopped working and battery won’t show that it’s charging after replacement. Removed and replaced all connectors multiple times, but nothing has changed. None of the ribbon cables were damaged

Kevin Beyers -

thankfully i bought a spare waterproof seal and the iopener , i screwed up the first seal. my iphone 8+ can live much longer now in the hands of my parents. now i got spare tools i can add to my arsenal of tools.

Kevin Chung -

Do the bottom screws strip often when opening this phone? Wondering if I really need the replacements listed in this guide.

Aj Fangman -

I replaced my battery successfully, but 3D touch to longer works, and reachability freaks out every time I'm asked for a touch ID prompt.

The only damage I did was ripping open the wireless charging coil sac, then gently placing it back. The coil itself was unaffected, but whoever replaced the battery last used the wrong adhesive; it stuck to the sac. (it was me; I was the last guy)

Does anyone know what might have gone wrong?

Replaced the seal pretty solidly, so I'm not sure if there's a cable I need to try plugging in again, or to check if I nicked something during repair.

Kyorbi -

Great guideline, but this was a challenge for my 66 year old eyes and shaky hands. The screws are VERY tiny! Never the less, following every step worked and my wife's iPhone 8 Plus is working just fine. I read the detail about replacing the water seal / gasket after putting the phone back together.

I'm not going to bother taking it apart again for this item as my wife stays away from the water hazards. - She is happy, so I am happy.

Thank you for a great product and great instructions.

Ed Vander Ryd -

I might rate this as more difficult too. No display on my iPhone 8 Plus. RIP.

Aaron Gleason -

Just successfully completed this, the hardest part being the removal of adhesive, it took an hour using fishing line instead of floss but it did the job.

The battery was extremely swollen and I felt like I was dismantling a bomb!

Excellent guide, just take time to read each step.

keez smith -

I am someone that is pretty confident using technology, but on a scale of 1-10, 10 being an expert techie, I would put myself at a 3 at most. I just repaired my iphone with a new lightning connector, battery and front screen and it took me approximately 8 hours (but I haven't slept going on 48 hours so my brain is in lag mode). I would say although I found it challenging because I have no previous knowledge of ever opening an electronic device to fix, as long as you take things slow and follow the step-by-step directions it's definitely attainable. Also, as someone who loves specific instructions for diy, I am thoroughly impressed with this

Spencer Martin -

Left a comment at step 15 - be careful when disconnecting the lower display connector, and stay away from the logic board at the LH side of the connector. I damaged a MOSFET, and my phone wouldn't charge afterwards, with either the new battery or the old one.

Chris Cerrudo -

I followed the guide here and successfully replaced the battery on my 8+. Disassembly was a breeze, but the reassembly is slow and tedious since you have to be very careful reconnecting cables etc. By far the hardest part was getting the old battery out. I could not grasp the edges of the old adhesive strips at all. But the dental floss technique work well, altho it was slow. I was able to the old battery out and removed the old adhesive strips from the inside of the case. Reassembly is greatly aided by lighted magnification; the screws are beyond tiny! Once reassembled the phone booted and showed 60% capacity. I charged it well past 100% and then left the phone off the charger for more than 24 hours to spend the battery out. Then recharged again to 100%. Now the phone lasts beyond all day. Great repair.

J D Thomas - 10/12/22

I was about to send my iPhone to Apple to change the battery, but they said I needed to remove it from Find-My. That basically removes the phone from my Apple ID account. They said that was necessary because they need to reset it to factory configuration when they open it. Is that the case with this procedure too, or is that only because Apple won't have my login pin number? Can I follow this procedure without having to reset my phone to factory configuration? Thanks!

Jason Myers -