iPhone SE 2020 Screen Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb
  • Comments: 128
iPhone SE 2020 Screen Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

25

Time Required

30 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Learn how to replace your iPhone SE 2020 screen. This part comes with the front facing camera, earpiece speaker, and EMI shield already installed, making for an easier repair.

All you need to do is remove the old screen and transfer the home button to the new screen, in order for Touch ID to function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

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    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke -

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica -

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

    Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

    Bill Maher -

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    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 -

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette -

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez -

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly -

    This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

    Berggorilla -

    thank you!!!!!

    Adrian Phan -

    Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

    obo12759 -

    Duck Tape worked great for me. Thanks for the great instruction!

    Michael -

    Tried several types of tape but finally used this screw driver solution. At first I wasn't pushing hard enough for fear of damaging things but with just a bit of extra force I was able to open it right up. Everything is fine with only a slight scratch on the frame.

    Wesley Shank -

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    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth -

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko -

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges -

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B -

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P -

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner -

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc -

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown -

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron -

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    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

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    • Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.

    • Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and for the bottom of the screen to open.

    • Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

    • Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next two steps.

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    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm -

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica -

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson -

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner -

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri -

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    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy -

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill -

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman -

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood -

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard -

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat -

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers -

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk -

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz -

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo -

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner -

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    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber -

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    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper -

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    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers -

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner -

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    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

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    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel -

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert -

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys -

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys -

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

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    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair -

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 -

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz -

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham -

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth -

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D -

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers -

    It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

    Matti Haveri -

    can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

    antonio -

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth -

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M -

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

    The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

    Matti Haveri -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers -

    The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

    Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

    Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

    Dan Knight

    daniel -

    That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

    But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

    robin -

    I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

    Robert Ast -

    Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

    It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

    Matti Haveri -

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

    Ross Mckellar -

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    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

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    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt -

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley -

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley -

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing -

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer -

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    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

    Regal Carveiro -

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    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John -

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

    I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

    Matti Haveri -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D -

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard -

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas -

  21. C3FyYiUfZDrATcGX
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    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    • During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten these screws, or your home button may not work.

    Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000

    Andreas Veeser -

    If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

    Andy Knapp -

    Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.

    Paula Lofland -

    On my iPhone, these were Y00 screws, not Y000

    Jim Glenys -

    Dutch version speaks of one 1,3 mm screw, but has 3 of those screws.

    Fonne Van Gils -

    There is a difference between Y00 and Y000. I realized this after unknowingly trying the Y000 and damaging the tip of the screwdriver, as the metal is apparently softer than the screw. I was able to use the corner of a flat metal file to make the cheap Y0000 work (which came with the replacement kit) by making 3 adjustments: 10 filing down the tip, 2) filing the shoulders to make the tips more pointed, and 3) cleaning out the 3 channels to remove burrs from the tip edges.

    Robert Lanzafame -

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    • Use an opening tool to pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

    • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat end of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

    To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.

    forhereyesonly -

    I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.

    Cool_Breeze -

    See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.

    Kristina Graham -

    Be extra careful with this step: it wasn’t clear to me from the description that the connector wrapped from underneath to connect, nor did my set come with picks. I used a blade from the wrong side, inadvertently (but way too easily) severing the connector and destroying the function of the home button and thus the entire phone.

    Jennifer Indeliclae -

    Be careful, I initially didn’t found the connector and nearly ripped the cable. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate. Found a YouTube video with very good close ups for this part (go cell phone repair detailed version)

    Svenja Büsing -

    I initially didn’t found the connector and cable and nearly broke it. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate, I needed YouTube video with good close ups to understand the setup.

    Svenja Büsing -

  23. TIioXdAH3FA1YH5f

    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    • Don't overheat the display. It should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

    The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

    forhereyesonly -

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    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    My original assembly broke trying to follow this step carefully. :(

    Ann -

    This one’s kind of hard to reconnect. Just remember to be gentle, take your time, and use your hands so that you can really feel it out.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Keep in mind, there’s a tiny rubber ring gasket between the Touch ID button and the display. In my experience when removing the button, the gasket stuck partly to the the button and partly to the display. I gently removed the part that was sticking to the display and guided it back on the button. If you’re missing that gasket it won’t be waterproof.

    Sam Tropper -

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    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display as shown.

    • Your replacement part may come with extra Y000 screws already installed near the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screws so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    Instructions were great. Putting the connections back is a bit of a hassle, but patience is your friend. Phone is up and running. Thanks iFixit.

    pwpfef01 -

    Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?

    Todd Skobjak -

    Hi Todd!

    I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

    Arthur Shi -

    They charged you $70 bucks for a new replacement screen for an iphone8 and it didn't even work right that's crazy they are over charging people considering my wife only payed $23 for a new replacement screen kit that comes with the new screen and everything else you need to change it out plus a extra screen protector and I just finished replacing the screen and so far so good no green vertical lines running down my screen. I like ifixit because they show me how to fix what I need to fix but I don't think I will be buying anything from them anytime soon.

    Lincoln -

    I greatly support Ifixit… but.. for me the same story as Todd Skobjak. Put in the new screen. Touch button is not found. Retried with screws loosened and refitting the plug. Nothing. Put the old screen back and the touch button worked again. So.. something with the new provided screen from Ifixed must be the case. I'll also get in touch with customer support.

    Ifixed: not only check the screen but also the cable to the touch button!

    Ton Vaes -

    What’s the trick here?

    Getting an “unable to activate Touch ID” after replacing the home button and a new screen - somewhat similar to that above. Any troubleshooting steps/resolution? I loosened, tightened screws holding the assembly, no effect.

    schaferjon -

    The button is paired with the motherboard. if you change the screen, always attempt to retrieve the original button.. otherwise touchid will not be available

    Bill McNamara -

    The instructions for this home/touch button repair were spot on! The special tip in red for Step 19 was extremely useful because that was exactly what I encountered while attempting to remove the original home/touch button from the original front screen. Step 21 and accompanying photos were a life saver as well, but this process did require heating the screen with my wife’s hair dryer several times to be able to gently pry up the adhesive for the home/touch button ribbon without ripping it to pieces. And yes my phone worked great after completing this repair. Time spent meant money saved and a personal satisfaction and pride in a job well done. Thank you Team iFixit!

    Jeffery Anderson -

    the steps to move the front camera and speaker to the new screen are missing, right?

    martijn.klabbers -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone SE 2020 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

178619 Reputation

16 comments

Is the SE 2020 still able to accept the replacement screen from iPhone 8? I thought it was mentioned lots here on the site a while back. If the 8 screen does not fit the new SE there must of been a change added recently.

gary olinger -

I've just completed the repair for a work phone on an SE 2020 with an iPhone 8 screen. I can confirm the screen fits and works fine!


One thing to note - this will break true tone and 3D touch functionality. I'm aware that it's possible to re-enable them with some fancy codework, but I really cannot be bothered for the benefit of retaining a couple of gimmicks.

I cannot account for the new iPhone SE (2022), though it looks like (surprise surprise) it uses much of the same parts.

Colm Donnelly -

The front facing camera system should be replaced as well since the front facing camera system with the new display will not work.

Vishal Mansuria -

I think you mean the camera from the old phone needs to be transplanted if the replacement doesn’t come with the camera and other sensors out of the box.

BRUCEL86 -

Confirmed for iPhone SE 3rd gen - you need to replace the full sensor assembly, even if the new screen comes with one already. Also the SE 2020 replacement screen works with 3rd gen.

Alex Connor -

I can’t find a guide on how to apply “iPhone 8/SE 2020 Display Assembly Adhesive” kit.

Anyname -

iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

jorge -

My daughter dropped her phone into the drive belt system on the beverage cart at the golf course. It was later found almost completely destroyed . The screen has burnt marks and the casing was worn off by rubbing against the belt. I figured I’d give it a shot since it was cheaper then replacing her phone.

After a full day of removing melted plastic from the case, I was finally able to put the screen back together. To my surprise, everything worked flawlessly, and the only issue is the cosmetic worn out casing.

do yourself a favor and purchase the cameras

and everything else with the kit .

jorge -

The touch-id sensor bracket is definitely a Y-00 and NOT a Y-000 set of screws. Please take note so as not to strip out the screws trying to remove them with the wrong bit/driver.

Daniel Carriveau -

Why doesn’t the front facing camera work after replacement?

ish -

You have to replace the one from the original screen onto the new one to have it work

daNNy Ng -

Good guide - accurate, descriptive and well labelled. Exactly what I've come to expect of ifixit.

Colm Donnelly -

Very nice and detailed guide. Got it replaced and working perfectly.

- side note you have to replace the camera module from the original screen to have the front camera work

- this is along with the home button, shown in the guide

TURN IT ON AND TEST BEFORE YOU PUT THE SCREEN BACK ON!

daNNy Ng -

I replaced my screen successfully, but my front facing camera isn’t working. Any idea how to fix it?

savygirl96 -

How can this be called a guide when it stops half way through the process?! There's nothing on removing the front camera, not to mention the whole reassembly process! Also info on how tightly to torque up screws would have been helpful.

jamesludlam -

Absolutely flawless instructions. Thank you so much for creating this.

John Elstad -