iPhone XS Max Taptic Engine Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 16

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Follow this guide to remove and/or replace the Taptic Engine in your iPhone XS Max.

This guide instructs you to fully remove the display assembly; this is intended to prevent accidental strain or damage to the display cables while you work. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine without endangering the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display cables.

Tools

Parts

iPhone XS Max Display Assembly Adhesive

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Step 2

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

besteht da die Gefahr das sich das Displayglas vom lcd löst?

roter spieler -

Besteht da die Gefahr das sich der Kleber vom Displayglas löst?

roter spieler -

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 6

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

I need help. I inserted the pick under the screen, but above the touch screen. When I lifted it, all I see is the silver touch screen instead of the interior of the iPhone. How do I to opening the screen the right way from here?

Joe Blaze -

Step 7

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 8

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 9

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 10

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Step 11

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 12

Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw
One 3.7 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Step 13

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 14

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 15

Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket:
Two 1.5 mm screws
One 1.1 mm screw

I am replacing the screen for the 2nd time - the first repair was done by someone else, and the first 2 screws are 1.5mm and the last screw is 1.1mm… If I put the screw back in am I risking Long Screw Damage?

Sarah Ybarra - 22/03/20

I think that the outside screw (red one, one the right) is actually 1.5 mm or something longer than 1.1. Looked that way to me.

Paul Key - 12/05/20

From the top, the screws are: 2 x 1,5mm + 1 x 1,1mm

serdev94 - 25/09/20

I can confirm the above comments on the screw length. Pls correct it in the description!

k_neuper -

Thanks for all your comments! I'll amend this step.

Arthur Shi -

Hi, I just changed the screen on my XS Max and for this bracket I used 2 x 1.1 mm and 1 x 1.5 mm.

Starting from left to right:

- left 1.1 mm (I tried with 1.5 mm like in the above picture but I felt that it didn't wanted to go deeper so I didn't forced and I tried it in the middle and it fit perfectly)

- middle 1.5 mm

- right 1.1 mm

For the two brackets I had 7 screws, I aligned them on the desk by length and I had 2 x 1.5 mm, 4 x 1.1 mm and 1 x 3.7 mm.

Good luck and I hope it will help someone!

Adrian Slabu -

Step 16

Remove the bracket.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 18

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 19

Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Mine still won’t respond even after reseating any ideas? Ground issue?

Jasom -

Step 20

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

What if that cable brakes how do u fix that?

Kourtney Williams -

Step 21

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

No olviden que para que pase el Face Id tienen q cambiar el flex que va encima de la camara delantera con mucho cuidado ya q si le ponen otro flex no funcionara.

jeferson - 31/10/18

Step 22

Remove the five 1.4 mm tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and main speaker.

La imagen no corresponde con un caso real de XS MAX. Tenedlo en cuenta a la hora de volver a montar el dispositivo.

Tornillo Tri-point = Tornillo de tres puntas

Dr. Movil - 21/09/20

What should I do if I stripped one of the Y000 screws. Not sure if it got rusted from water damage.

Sean -

Step 23

The bracket is lightly adhered in place.
Gently lift to unstick and remove the bracket, being careful not to bend it.
If necessary, apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. (Putting an iOpener on the bracket is not recommended, as this may bend the spring contacts along the top.)

Step 24

Remove the 1.3 mm tri-point Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

Step 25

Push the speaker connector cover towards the battery, and then lift to unclip and remove it.
Be very careful not to poke or puncture the battery with your tools.

Step 26

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

Step 27

Remove the three screws securing the speaker:
One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
One 2.9 mm standoff screw
One 3.1 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff bit and driver handle.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 28

When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the speaker flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, bend the cable toward the battery so the speaker has room to come out.
Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker slightly.
When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.

Step 29

While prying up the speaker, use tweezers to peel away the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker.
If necessary, apply a little heat to soften the adhesive and make the bumper strip easier to separate.

Step 30

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

Step 31

Remove the speaker.
The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.
To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

Welche Dichtung soll hier verwendet werden?

Mustafa Dogan - 25/04/21

Where are we supposed to get this 'gasket' from? ... Not seeing it here.

pvillave -

Step 32

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Step 33

Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 34

Grasp the plastic bumper strip and carefully lift it over the speaker connector.

Step 35

Remove the Taptic Engine assembly.
The contact clip on the left side of the Taptic Engine may fall off. Be sure it's installed correctly as shown before reinstalling the Taptic Engine in the iPhone.

Step 36

Peel up and remove the plastic bumper strip from the Taptic Engine.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406802 Reputation

iPhone XS Max Taptic Engine Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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