iPhone XS Screen Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 61

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

If your iPhone XS screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Step 2

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?

sabrihakulii - 08/07/20

It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296

When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…

mcr4u2 - 23/08/20

The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.

Tawan Khamapirad - 15/12/20

Very cool! Thanks

Antonio -

My screen was pretty stuck… would not budge. Heated, super glued the suction cup, tried gorilla tape. Ended up doing the GoPro mount with 3M VSB tape method mentioned. Worked great. That 3M tape is the bomb.

Rich Wachtel - 03/05/21

The included suction cup took a few tries but ended up working for me.

charlotte -

If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003 thick goes right in. Work your way up until you can get the pick or supplied pry tool in.

William Olstad -

where can I buy 3M VSB plis!!

gerardo artigas cuellar -

3M VHB tape is at auto stores and other big box stores, or online.

nicO Gurney -

I used the tweezers that came with the replacement screen and jammed one of them into the glass and that eventually worked. Heating with a blow dryer is also important. The suction cup was helpful in loosening the adhesive for sure, but just not enough to get the display to come out.

J Olin -

Step 3

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

pay attention to not insert tools between glass and plastic display frame, as I do.

(insert separation tool under plastic frame)

cristiano -

Step 6

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 7

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 8

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 9

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 10

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 11

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Step 12

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Open from the LEFT. Photo confused me and I came very close to damaging my phone by opening from the wrong side.

charlotte -

Step 13

Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

The ribbon makes the 1.3 mm screw a little tricky. Use one hand to hold the display at a 90 degree or smaller angle to create the slack necessary to get the screw driver in place.

charlotte -

I tracked my screws by using my kids fridge magnets to hold each screw size and placing a piece of masking tape below with the screw size.

charlotte -

I stripped a screw ugh

Tresia -

Step 14

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

During reassembly, pause here to check function. Gently reattach the top of the display to the base to test face ID.

charlotte -

Step 15

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 16

Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.

goblazers -

Step 17

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Shine a bright light here to help you align the connector. Eventually, the right side snapped in first.

charlotte -

On reassembly, use the pad of your fingertip to reconnect.

charlotte -

Step 18

Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.

natialollie -

Step 19

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd

Siddhartha Chowdhury - 04/03/20

No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.

Arthur Shi - 04/03/20

Step 20

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

I wish the reassembly directions were separate. I forgot to pause here to do the waterproof seal.

charlotte -

Step 21

On the back of the display assembly, peel back and remove any tape covering the hidden screw at the lower right corner of the speaker housing.

Step 22

Remove the three Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 1.4 mm screw
One 1.9 mm screw

While disassembling, I missed that these are all Y000. Prior list specifies in the bullets, but this list specifies in the text preceding the bullets.

charlotte -

Step 23

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 24

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Step 25

Carefully slide the edge of an opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel. If the microphone remains difficult to separate, apply more heat.

Step 26

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Step 27

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.
The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 28

If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

Step 29

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

This picture is upside down compared to the prior step, look carefully to ensure proper alignment.

charlotte -

What is that hole that is on the opposite side of the proximity sensor? Is it necessary any adhesives or special filter to put it back on the bracket?

Rafael Gomez Prados -

Hi Rafael! The hole is for the front-facing microphone. You should be able to reuse the existing adhesive on the screen. If you're transferring it, you can cut a square of double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, poke a generous hole in the center of the square, and apply it to the cable with the hole.

Arthur Shi -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406754 Reputation

34 comments

It would be better if you provided some guidance on moving the iPhone XS Front Camera and Sensor Holder from the old display to the new one since the part you deliver does not include it. In order to remove it I ended up having to use my heat gun which warped the plastic and ultimately caused me to have to buy a replacement. Does it require adhesive? I still don’t know and it gets conveniently ignored in your guide and repair videos on YouTube. I’m quite frustrated.

Adam - 10/10/19

Sorry about that! That’s no fun at all. iFixit’s replacement screens are meant to include that component; I’ll ask for someone to check and make sure it’s not left out in the future. However, it’s normally pretty easy to remove using mild heat and/or a few drops of isopropyl alcohol, with some gentle wiggling and prying. Then you carefully position it on your new screen. Adhesive is helpful, but once you screw down the earpiece speaker over the top, it should be perfectly secure regardless.

Jeff Suovanen - 16/10/19

My phone screen feels a little loose after reassembly. Mostly in the top left area if I push it.. is this normal?

Jennifer Palacios - 19/12/19

Short answer: Yes. Long answer: If you have adhesive on it that can hold the screen down. If you don’t it’s $5 and super easy to put on. It is kind of normal for the screen to be a little warped, I have done replacements on iPhones without reapplying adhesive and when applying heat it can warp it a tiny bit. The adhesive can help with this a lot. I strongly recommend you get it to hold your screen down.

HeyJacksonY - 20/06/20

Thanks a lot for this great instruction!

Walter Fritz - 06/08/20

Sorry for a stupid question, is the digitizer and lcd screen one unit? Long story short, the screen is not cracked but the lcd somehow got damaged.

Reggie Chacon - 24/08/20

Hi Reggie,

The digitizer and OLED panel are pretty intricately attached to each other and are sold together as one unit. You may be able to replace the OLED panel without replacing the digitizer, but that would require specialty tools.

Arthur Shi - 25/08/20

Bello, Después que tengas un buen ojo y buen pulso.

Se ve y se siente igual que el original.

Lo mega recomiendo!

Jaime Fontanals - 27/08/20

Is there one time to make a video with a ‘really smashed’ screen?

You always show good screens on any repair you do videos or photographs.

This a positive critic, not a lament.

I hope you do understand what I mean.

JoeBlog - 20/10/20

Hi, I have one problem and I really hope to find somebody with answers. I need to replace an iPhone XS screen but…. My original screen doesnt have these metallic parts you use to clip it to the rest of the phone. The screen I have ordered had them and also was a tiny bit too long for my phone. This is all so very weird because I can't find any other types of screen online. Seems almost like my phone is a problem. Have you ever encountered such problem? You can reach me by email roza.francois@gmail.com

Roza et François X. - 29/10/20

Hi. i also have the problem like fracois. Could you help me please?! You can reach me by email under dcs.privat@gmail.com

Greetings,

Daniel

dcsprivat - 15/11/20

Where are you guys ordering parts from? Try taking pictures of both your phone and the old/new screens and post your question in our Answers forum—you’re more likely to get help there.

Jeff Suovanen - 16/11/20

It seems to me that the European models of the iPhone XS do not have the clips you mentioned (at least, I have mt9e2b/a and it has no clips). The display is much easier to replace since the earpiece speaker + sensor assembly is not fixed to the display; you can stop at around step 17 and reassemble. BUT you need the correct display module (without clips), or it won't go back together. So really the title of this guide should mention the specific iPhone XS models for which it's suitable.

Phil Atkin -

Hi Jeff. Thank you for your request.

1. I ordered the part on ifixit.

2. As soon as possible i will post both photos. I hope you can me help me soon, because i am struggeling with no having a mobil device at the moment.

Greetings,

Daniel

dcsprivat - 16/11/20

Thanks for the replacement and instructions, since I replaced the screen of my previous iPhone 6 and iPhone 4 and several more for friends, it just took me around 10 minutes.

Luckily I bought the complete set with the tools, I did not know they used Y000 screws and would not have had a screwdriver for it if there wasn’t one included.

Dominik - 27/11/20

Hello, thank you for the guide and kit, everything was great but there was a problem: the space where the square part with the Proximity sensor and Flood illuminator go, originally on the original Iphone screen had a square little mirror like part (like in your tut pictures), in your Oled replacement screen set it is round and much bigger. Is this a problem?

I ask this cause now the auto-brightness is finnicky, the Iphone dims hard like (brightness auto drops), i don’t think i damaged the ambient light sensor , i was extremely slow and methodical, removed the glue carefully from the two near parts before, didn’t strain the cable, the ambient light sensor came out easily enough, slowly but steadily. Also i think if it would be broken, it would not work and dim the brightness. Could it be related to the fact that the sensor is not glued down like it was before? The screws were carefully put back in the exact order and no glue fell into/onto the sensors. Thank you

frankenstar - 06/01/21

Hello. After replacing the display every many while I use it it turns black screen, then I have to lock and unlock it and it lights up again. Could you advise me something? Or is the display faulty? With the original it does not. Thanks.

luchesa Martinez - 26/01/21

Is it impossible to install a new screen and make it flush with the sides? Using an iFixit replacement unit. No matter how well I align and how much I press, it’s raised… which is really annoying

Chris - 14/02/21

The install went ok - 2 things should be mentioned….1. does the blue film on the replacement screen need to be removed Yes or No, 2. IF the touch sensor is not working mention trying a hard restart 1st it would have saved me a ton of time and frustration… I assembled, reinstalled the old screen since it was working before, since it didn’t work either, disassembled, and reassembled the replacement part several times to troubleshoot why it wasn’t working. Those screws are sooo small its a wonder I didn’t lose any. None the less, after a hard restart, the touch sensor is working great and the phone is operating as designed. I was going to replace the back glass & ordered the part but there’s no way I am going into that after doing this- its not my phone. I put packing tape over the glass and put it back into the cover. A few hours of time is way cheaper than purchasing a new phone :)

teejayoh - 06/03/21

Thanks for the suggestion about the hard restart! If the blue film is lightly adhered to the replacement screen, it is a liner and should be removed.

Arthur Shi - 08/03/21

Super fantastic, company Ifixit <3 we love you, well I do at least, find it so sweet that I ordered a new screen, and I receive a small candy with the packet. Thanks, many times o7 great instruction!

Mads Yde -

The two screen connection modules with pins closest to the bottom are impossible to connect. They keep popping out making it impossible to put the cover on. Any tips?

The Entrepreneur Boi -

The screen replacement went flawlessly. All the functions work perfectly. I have no problems with 3D Touch, nor with FaceID. The only thing that doesn’t work any more is True Tone. Thank you for the guide.

Alexandru Fuicu -

Just replaced a cracked screen. Took some time but finally managed to do it. Now have a beautiful screen and and a perfectly working device.

Paul L.

paullevesque -

Great guide! Unfortunately I now have stripes across the screen (left-right). They are only visible on even grey backgrounds, so it’s not a big issue. Guess I bought a cheap screen, https://www.phone-parts.dk/iphone-xs-ska...

David Arbirk -

good day ,,, when i were replaced the charger port, and after making the settings, the device make turns off and restarts. !!?

7BK SMA -

I replaced my screen yesterday and the guides were perfect. Unfortunately, when I went to bed and had my screen on its dimmest setting I noticed that the colors were massively distorted toward the red end of the spectrum. I’m worried that I received a faulty product. The screen otherwise functions perfectly and colors are all normal at any other brightness setting. Please help!

max silverstein -

These are not authentic apple screen replacements. I’ve received two different replacement screens now and they’ve both had issues. The first worked mostly fine except when the screen brightness was on its lowest setting the screen would have a strong reddish hue and the resolution would get noisy. The replacement that was sent has different problems, and now I wish I had just kept the original. This one is over saturated, struggles to have even dimming at the lowest brightness setting, the glass itself is not perfectly smooth, and the screen is somehow strangely sensitive, which makes typing and general use of the phone more difficult. At this point I wish I just took it to a certified apple repair shop.

max silverstein -

Thanks again.Very clear, step by step. Doable in 60 minutes. All is working well from the first time!

Vlad.

Vadim -

When i lift my screen up and off. all the top mounted components are left behind still attached to the phone ( front camera etc)
also there is some sort of metal protection border in the inside around the perimeter of the phone. blocking access to some screws at the bottom.

has anyone come across this. i cant remove the protection plate.

gordonmsykes -

that is the display frame when you took the old display off you must have accidentally gone between the display and display frame. you will have to buy a new display because the display frame holds the display on the phone

Diesel Woods -

The earpiece speaker stopped working after transferring from old screen to new screen. Tried to be gentle with the cables, disconnected then cleaned the contacts on ribbon cable connector and its matching logic board connector. (Face ID does work though,)

Joel -

It would be really good to have some (shared) instructions on how to turn off the iPhone when the display and/or digitizer is not working; after all that's why we're doing this! Most guides I've seen say that the instructions are for turning off the phone, but actually they tell you how to force it to restart.

For iPhones without buttons, the sequence seems to be: briefly press volume up, briefly press volume down, press and hold the RH side button. Continue to hold when the display turns off... Continue to hold when the Apple logo shows, then the display will turn off again. Now release the side button. (This is similar to the restart sequence you'll find elsewhere, but those instructions will tell you to release the button when the Apple logo shows.) Clearly the display may be so damaged that you can't see the Apple logo, but you may well be able to tell when the display turns off entirely for the second time. If you can't see any visible change, try holding for about 20s altogether.

Phil Atkin -

Amazingly easy to follow. A successful repair and also lots of fun to accomplish.

Eric -