Einleitung

Use this guide to replace the battery in your iPad 9 Wi-Fi.

Note: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, click here.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

  1. THxeZqAlU4lI3Dsj
    • Be sure to power off your iPad before you begin your repair.

    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the iPad for two minutes.

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    • While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:

    • Front camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

    • Ambient light sensors

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    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.

    • Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.

    • Position the suction cups near the left edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

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    • Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.

    • Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

    • Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next step.

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    • This step shows how to open the iPad using a suction handle.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.

    • Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

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    • Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • Don't worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn't be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

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    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

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    • Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  9. FLj6SpbOQdrvVpRi
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the iPad for two minutes.

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    • Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the front camera.

    • Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

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    • Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

    • Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

  13. Jiwfe4BYASgflPlt
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    • Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the iPad to completely separate the top adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  14. ZHBh3M1LZI1RNTnX
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.

  15. IaiyPav5brNr6jCX
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    • Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  16. uMAkRgI5TwCTd4Ks
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    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.

    • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach 3 inches from the bottom of the iPad.

    How many inches exactly?

    Annika Faelker -

  17. UGjYPQYXKPD6dNES
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the iPad for two minutes.

  18. ZLBC4NKlQbk3OZTD
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    • Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.

    • The third image shows the bottom-left antenna underneath the digitizer.

    • Leave the pick in the corner before moving to the next step.

  19. TEwIBIf3sxmJiEN1
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    • Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.

    • Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

  20. C2RdZwTKLextDlUC
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    • Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

  21. EdcTHHvhSmUedM5X
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    • Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.

    • Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.

    • Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

  22. lwiCOncwPlKLg3a3
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.

  23. ABh5NOiTnhO15fgU
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    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.

    • If there's a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

  24. H1yAsJZcQDoPHbPD
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    • Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

    • Throughout the remaining steps, try not to touch the back side of the glass or the surface of the LCD with your fingers—any fingerprints can be tough to clean off.

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  26. d6WFtDjCYJBQvFcC
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    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.

    • During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

    • Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the iPad. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

  27. Zag51Fn3jeTg5XDo
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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.

    • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPad.

    In addition to these four screws, my iPad 9th Gen LCD was glued to each of the four corners with black silicone adhesive so be careful!. A quick search brought up this handy video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATCAYY75... which was most helpful in filling in the blanks!

    Si Bob -

  28. t5OjLd3WOw55haH1
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    • Don't attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it's still connected by several cables at the home button end.

    • Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.

    • Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

  29. OHqXvYZRCZoeetDM
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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

  30. jt4vWJnpj3gdTY4b
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    • These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

    • Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

  31. nsyt2uuWayDvnWSN
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    • Follow the instructions carefully if you're isolating the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.

    • Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.

    • Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

    • Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

    • The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at about a 15 degree angle.

    • Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

  32. MXWfQNMDmRonYjDU
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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

  33. UlCmQJMnpKYMKikJ
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    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  34. QhlmQgZQE31VFCl5
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  35. VLaIW1hJHEqGLUak
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    • Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

  36. dBgHCbiwHw1WMWQf
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

  37. w4eXX2BdWPHkxcYR
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    • Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

  38. CDBsVjWQNOmeZ3pH
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.

    • To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

  40. 2Z65nIi4uMCvttCN
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the buffer block near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

    • Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.

    • Remove the buffer block.

  41. ogIaD6vOywWV4qFm
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    • The home button cable is secured with some light adhesive.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the frame.

  42. 6nVv2pTvXfQeJt5k
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    • Remove the front panel assembly.

    • Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.

    • If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.

    • Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.

    • The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

    • During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.

    • Test your iPad's functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

  43. aPLwPqZcO5Pue6Lx
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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.

  44. MDTVam1l41shQHYh
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.

  45. nYTeGUl4OnhSY3Xe
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    • Peel off any tape covering the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector.

    There is no need to complete this step to extract the mic flex.

    DarrenG -

  46. B1eBtPp2rVjxL6aY
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    • Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector.

    There is no need to complete this step to extract the mic flex.

    DarrenG -

  47. hO2nVaSsTDJyMZvZ
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the left ambient light sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  48. qurGoKxJbeHwa2v4
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    • The left ambient light sensor is lightly adhered to the frame.

    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the sensor from the frame.

    There is no need to complete this step to extract the mic flex.

    DarrenG -

  49. NiyehUkirfcRUH3O
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    • Use tweezers to remove any adhesive remaining on the frame.

    There is no need to complete this step to extract the mic flex.

    DarrenG -

  50. AoPMkqLlOjUTuWC5
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    • Peel back any tape covering the headphone jack's press connector.

  51. u1WFKn2FTLKgfkcV
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    • Use the flat end of the spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector.

  52. D1tYcgdYnZLTALvH
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    • The headphone jack cable is lightly adhered to the frame.

    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the headphone jack cable up from the frame.

  53. vWau4Y2yCUwFqPdH
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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.3 mm-long screw securing the headphone jack from the frame.

    There is no need to complete this step to extract the mic flex.

    DarrenG -

  54. plrwowoWuQiFanHB
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the headphone jack out of its enclosure and remove it.

    There is no need to complete this step to extract the mic flex.

    DarrenG -

    Hi Darren.

    Good catch! I have updated the microphone assembly guide accordingly.

    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

  55. 2QAc4pTLveSWvWTs
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    • Peel off any tape covering the front camera's ZIF connector.

  56. 1lw5OOIh1aRWNSKO
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    • Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the front camera's ZIF connector.

  57. HtTliYrlrlBaHLg1
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the front camera cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  58. WEl1dsXZYyaoailF
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the top of the iPad for 90 seconds.

  59. Ns5C2CYtyX4h1xj5
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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front camera and the frame.

    • Gently pry up to separate the adhesive.

    • If you're having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more heat and pry at different angles.

    Much easier if you remove the frame before attempting to extract the camera module.

    DarrenG -

  60. IJkQUqlcgpglLMSc
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    • Use tweezers to remove the front camera from its recess.

  61. vZXY4WTjB1NG6Ej4
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.

  62. xKqQkOGW2cuMDiFX
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    • Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.

  63. 2PHjQlFbhH3MQ5gS
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    • Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the button control cable ZIF connector.

  64. lZVLEUZ4Z4F4Nrqm
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the button control cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  65. ETtXsCaCBOe2G1w6
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    • Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.

  66. QGV31pI6xhFr5Gr2
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    • Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.

  67. UxKbEZLnpPYHQcy5
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the Smart Cover sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  68. IoGreGodwctxHYoD
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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left antenna's coaxial cable.

    • Repeat for the right antenna's coaxial cable.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

  69. auGLs4dUuKZqL32R
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    • Peel up the right antenna cable.

    • Grip the antenna cable by the cable itself and not at its connector. Pulling coaxial cables by their connectors can break them.

  70. la4QhTU3K4hkKuwa
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    • Peel the left antenna cable away from the frame, along the bottom edge of the iPad.

  71. OaaukrpENlEua2BC
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the buffer block at the bottom left corner of the iPad.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the buffer block.

  72. FShT3wm1E5t6gWdr
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    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingernail to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.

  73. 4fDyHMXSVfkE2RWK
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    • Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on both the left and right speaker cable ZIF connectors.

  74. IDmaGkIic5ZGGFEy
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the left and right speaker cables straight out of their respective ZIF connectors.

  75. QQYJBX2INAVbDgmI
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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.

  76. CnSJjSKJRNEF5v4I
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector cable's connector.

  77. fYOpys6GGLhGdZXp
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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tape securing the Smart Connector cables to the frame.

  78. u3fZtQUyc4jHdcQf
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    • Peel the Smart Connector cables away from the frame.

  79. sfawXGV66i4aFwTB
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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the charging port to the frame:

    • Two 1.8 mm-long screws

    • Two 3.2 mm-long screws

  80. oqg4migKLfYmFApm
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    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.

  81. XQviOTbTjYxypJCO
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    • Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the charging port and slide it towards the logic board to cut the adhesive.

  82. bpTn1dYHNxA4bRhF
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    • Pull the charging port out of its slot in the frame.

  83. knqg3TY2FmolVAMx
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    • Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the frame.

    • Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

  84. TmBuNbLYWcriQGfh
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    • Remove the battery blocker.

  85. X64VcYSQXtSNoOFB
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    • Insert an opening tool near the middle of the logic board and pry up with a slow and steady force to peel it away from the frame.

    • Bending or warping the logic board could lead to permanent damage. If the adhesive feels extra stubborn, apply more heat and try again.

    • If the logic board won't budge, slide an opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the logic board to slice some of the adhesive.

  86. nws1wqSbQ1fadbM4
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    • Use a halberd spudger or an opening pick to slice any remaining adhesive securing the logic board to the frame.

  87. BkNeLH21oitXLMqt
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    • Remove the logic board.

    • During reassembly, ensure that there are no ribbon cables stuck under the logic board before gluing it down.

    • During reassembly, apply strips of Tesa tape if the original adhesive is too mangled to be reused.

  88. tvOGCMEsO2yTMxUR
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    • Before removing the battery, it's important to protect the other components in the rear case by covering them with tape.

    • Cut a strip of painter's tape or scotch tape to the width of the iPad.

    • Press the bottom edge of the tape strip onto the rear case above the speakers and bottom antennas.

    • Run your finger along the bottom edge of tape strip to ensure a good seal.

    • Press the top edge of the tape strip over the bottom components to keep any cables from intruding on the battery removal.

  89. ZE6G1gv3Alt6PNB3
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    • Cover the upper components with a strip of tape.

  90. p3kUPGufZOejLTAD
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    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover.

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  91. s4KOTvGhcswC6SMA
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    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  92. Ie2rRpC2EhCTgO1h
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    • The red boxes show the locations of the adhesive strips that secure the battery to the rear case.

  93. XOmbaQRX6HUqdvps
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    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery.

  94. SSKn3aVwOXHadGpJ
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    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the battery.

  95. BOjMtSIKPaOyMlXd
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    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol between the two battery cells.

  96. dlsuNB4q5FKdfGCB
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    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the right edge of the battery.

  97. CfC2sOC4KQHYbXdr
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    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the upper edge of the battery.

  98. CQ6H1knjpWrGQTJT
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    • Insert a plastic card at the bottom right corner of the battery.

    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

    • If at any point in this process the adhesive becomes very difficult to cut through, apply an iOpener to that area.

  99. P4oCmHwDVIQQMBWV
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    • Slide the plastic card underneath the right edge to reach the center.

    • Insert the plastic card as far as you can under the battery to cut the adhesive.

    • Remove the plastic card.

  100. F5DZG5jlPLyBplLO
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    • Insert the plastic card below the battery connector as far as you can.

    • Leave the plastic card inserted.

  101. omEDtUZJ2EdYxSRW
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    • Insert another plastic card above the battery connector as far as you can.

  102. Fdgj5bQjSKmtdyy4
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    • Remove the plastic card below the battery connector and insert it under the bottom edge of the battery.

  103. OeLJwbY5bpFoBeIs
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    • Slide the plastic card along the bottom edge of the battery to cut the adhesive strip.

    • When you reach the left corner of the bottom edge, insert the plastic card as far as you can.

  104. ab2gasUW5XMEBwW6
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    • Remove the plastic card above the battery connector and insert it under the upper edge of the battery.

    • Slide the plastic card along the top edge of the battery to cut the adhesive strip.

    • If you're having trouble loosening the battery, apply some more adhesive remover, or apply a heated iOpener to the back case.

  105. OuXNnLlgXdNor1qF
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    • When you reach the left corner of the upper edge, insert the plastic card as far as you can.

  106. NWyqaIsyVVk2c6Lm
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    • Insert the plastic card under the upper left corner of the battery.

    • Slide the plastic card down towards the bottom of the iPad.

    • When you reach the center edge of the battery, insert the plastic card as far as you can to cut the central adhesive strip.

  107. wOt6XdnZWKY4lwJn
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    • Insert the plastic card under the bottom left corner of the battery.

    • Slide the plastic card up towards the top of the iPad.

  108. DcGmEwmBPxvE3Tgr
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    • When you reach the center edge, insert the plastic card as far as you can to cut the central adhesive strip.

  109. bEdBhRf1BF4X5fgA
    • Remove the battery.

    • If you're still not able to remove the battery, repeat the process of cutting through the battery adhesive.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • Remove the old battery adhesive from the rear case using tweezers and high concentration isopropyl alcohol with a lint-free cloth where needed.

    • If your battery doesn't come with preinstalled adhesive, use Tesa tape to reattach the battery to the rear case.

    • Before installing the new battery, test it by first reinserting the logic board, connecting the button control cable ZIF connector, and the LCD press connector. Then remove the battery blocker and reinstall the battery connector screw. Power on the iPad to ensure it still works. Go backwards through this step and then glue down the battery.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 9 Answers community for help.


Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Mitglied seit: 16/01/22

69204 Reputation

2 Kommentare

Are the 7,8 and 9 battery's all the same size and spec. I am struggling to find a reputable 9th gen battery.

Ipadgeek -

Yes, 7/8/9th gen batteries are of the same model so don't worry and just buy directly from ifixit or if you want cheaper just go on amazon

n0k0m3 -