Einleitung

Folge dieser Anleitung, um das defekte Logic Board in einem iPhone 6 Plus zu ersetzen.

Beachte, dass das Logic Board und die Touch ID bei der Produktion in der Fabrik miteinander gekoppelt werden. Dies bedeutet, dass wenn du das Logic Board austauschst, du die Funktion der Touch ID verlierst, außer du ersetzt auch den Home Button und verwendest eine bereits von Apple verwendete Kombination aus Logic Board und Home Button.

  1. USCeHYChW5fqBuWf
    • Entlade dein iPhone auf unter 25%, bevor du es demontierst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen-Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn man sie aus Versehen ansticht.

    • Schalte dein iPhone ab, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

    Pentalobe P2

    Enea Del Lama -

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf -

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson -

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ -

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan -

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich -

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

  2. oSSfrNNsV2H2nZYu
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    • Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung des iSclack, ein gutes Werkzeug um das iPhone 6 sicher zu öffnen, welches wir allen empfehlen, die mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen. Wenn du den iSclack nicht benutzt, überspringe die nächsten beiden Schritte.

    • Wenn der Abstandshalter aus Plastik noch in der Mitte des iSclack ist, entferne diesen jetzt - er ist nicht benötigt für größere Smartphones wie das iPhone 6.

    • Schließe den Griff des iSclack, um die Saugnapf-Zange zu öffnen.

    • Platziere das untere Ende deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen.

    • Positioniere den oberen Saugnapf direkt über (aber nicht auf) dem Home Button und drücke ihn gegen das Display.

    • Öffne den Griff um die Zange zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke Sie kräftig gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

    • Wenn das Display stark gesplittert ist, haftet der Saugheber möglicherweise besser, wenn du eine Lage von durchsichtigem Paketband aufklebst. Zu diesem Zweck sind dem iSclack zwei Stücke Klebeband beigelegt.

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    • Halte dein iPhone gut fest und schließe den Griff des iSclacks, um die Zange zu öffnen. Die Saugnäpfe heben dabei die Display Einheit von der Rückseite des Geräts.

    • Das iSclack Öffnungswerkzeug wurde entwickelt, um dein iPhone genau so weit zu öffnen, dass die Teile getrennt werden können, aber keine Kabel beschädigt werden.

    • Löse die Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

    • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre fort mit Schritt 7.

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert -

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry -

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike -

  4. kyqQkZwqWmMDtNVl
    • Wenn du keinen iSclack hast, benutze einen einzelnen Saugheber, um die Display-Einheit anzuheben:

    • Drücke einen Saugheber auf das Display, direkt über (aber nicht auf) den Home Button.

    • Drücke den Saugheber gut auf der Scheibe fest, damit er sicher haften bleibt.

    • Wenn die Scheibe stark gesplittert ist, haftet der Saugheber möglicherweise nicht gut. Klebe eine Lage von durchsichtigem Paketband darüber, damit er besser festhält. Du kannst auch anstelle eines Saughebers sehr starkes Klebeband verwenden. Eine weitere Möglichkeit ist, den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber zu befestigen.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut -

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter -

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker -

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith -

  5. bPBFLb3Vf5xeFd1k
    • Ziehe an dem Saugnapf während du das iPhone mit der anderen Hand festhältst, um die Display Einheit etwas von der Rückseite anzuheben.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und wende gleichbleibend feste Kraft an. Die Display Einheit sitzt sehr viel passgenauer im Gerät als viele andere Teile.

    • Benutze ein Plastik Opening Tool, um vorsichtig die Rückseite nach unten zu drücken, weg von der Display Einheit, während du das Display weiter mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

    • Mehrere Clips befestigen die Display Einheit im Gehäuse, weshalb du vielleicht den Saugnapf und ein Plastik Opening Tool brauchst, um die Display Einheit von der Rückseite zu lösen.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas -

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick -

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice -

    This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.

    Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.

    FixingMyiPhone -

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    • Ziehe an der Plastiknoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu lösen.

    • Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling -

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

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    • Nutze die Spitze des iPhones wie ein Scharnier und nimm das Displayende mit dem Home Button von der Rückseite ab.

    • Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.

    • Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.

    • Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos -

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos -

    your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…

    if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…

    it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…

    circuitbender 477 -

    Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?

    Christina Pegtel -

    Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?

    Christina Pegtel -

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    • Mehrere Clips am oberen Rand der Display Einheit bilden fast ein Scharnier, durch das das iPhone wie ein Buch aufgeklappt werden kann.

    • Achte während der Remontage darauf, die Clips direkt unter dem oberen Rand der Rückseite zu befestigen. Dann schiebe die Display Einheit nach oben, bis der obere Rand bündig mit dem der Rückseite ist.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato -

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    • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben von der Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses:

    • Eine 2,3 mm #00 Kreuzschlitz-Schraube

    • Eine 3,1 mm #00 Kreuzschlitz-Schraube

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams -

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson -

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao -

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis -

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany -

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner -

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay -

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. LJPr2uMXVAFoskqs
    • Entferne die Akkuverbindungsklemme aus Metall von dem iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan -

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor -

  11. ZSMGcLEnPMdHYkKr
    • Heble den Akkustecker vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Das kannst du entweder mit einem sauberen Fingernagel oder mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug aus Kunststoff machen.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nur am Akkustecker hebelst und nicht an der Fassung auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Fassung hebelst, kann der Anschluss brechen.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams -

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor -

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut -

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert -

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki -

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones -

  12. U3B3TTmJCH2tYSMQ
    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, mit denen die Kabelabdeckung der Display Einheit befestigt ist:

    • Drei 1,2 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,9 mm Schraube

    • Versuche nicht, längere Schrauben in die rot markierten Schraubenlöcher einzuführen. Andernfalls kann es zu irreparablen Schäden am Logic Board kommen.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert -

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop -

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh -

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo -

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard -

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark -

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric -

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT -

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard -

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter -

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos -

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. -

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson -

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ -

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt -

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith -

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson -

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo -

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    • Entferne die Kabelabdeckung der Display Einheit vom Logic Board.

  14. OjcHpgixN21XNEyj
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    • Passe bei den nächsten vier Schritten auf, dass du nur die Verbindungen der Kabel löst, und nicht die Anschlüsse auf dem Logic Board.

    • Halte die Display Einheit immer noch im 90°-Winkel, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu lösen. Dazu kannst du deinen Fingernagel nutzen oder ein Öffnungswerkzeug aus Kunststoff.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) -

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen -

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia -

    Try starting at one end instead of in the middle. It's to easy to bend a connector and this way, I can get a safe start and go from there.

    Rongwey -

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    • Trenne den Anschluss vom Home Button Kabel.

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    • Vergewissere dich, dass der Akku abgeklemmt ist, bevor du das Kabel in diesem Schritt trennst oder wieder anschließt.

    • Nutze ein Öffnungswerkzeug aus Kunststoff, um das Touchscreen-Kabel zu lösen.

    • Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann sich das Displaykabel vom Anschluss lösen, dann würdest du entweder einen ganz schwarzen Bildschirm sehen oder weiße Linien im Display. In dem Fall kannst du dann einfach dieses Kabel wieder neu anschließen und dein iPhone zurücksetzen. Zurücksetzen geht am einfachsten indem du den Akkuanschluss trennst und dann wieder anschließt.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni -

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino -

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi -

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    • Zum Schluss musst du nur noch den Anschluss des Touchscreen-Kabels lösen.

    • Achte beim Wiederanschluss des Kabels darauf, nicht in der Mitte des Steckers zu drücken. Drücke erst an einem und dann am anderen Ende des Steckers. Wenn du in der Mitte drückst, kannst du den Anschluss und das Kabel des Touch Panels beschädigen.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop -

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop -

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones -

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles -

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles -

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein -

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard -

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons -

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius -

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc -

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc -

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings -

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard -

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY -

  18. 3gOJDeXwSv2IQKrW
    • Nimm die Display Einheit von der Rückseite ab.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard -

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs -

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian -

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton -

  19. QZ6dcrMeAVmdfKA5
    • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, die die Antennenhalterung am Rückgehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 1,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,8 mm Schraube

    This is not the top cellular antenna.

    Tom Chai -

  20. 64U5S5psQ5SagpR5
    • Greife mit einer Pinzette die Abdeckung der 5 GHz Wi-Fi Antenne und hebe sie aus dem iPhone.

  21. PlfOYY6R2u2B3IRw
    • Löse vorsichtig mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug aus Weichplastik den Anschluss der 5 GHz Wi-Fi Antenne vom Logic Board.

  22. 6GyEOGeqHOPcFn25
    6GyEOGeqHOPcFn25
    GTlN2V4fGRFPyqZE
    • Greife mit einer Pinzette den Anschluss der 5 GHz Wi-Fi Antenne und löse ihn vorsichtig von der Sicherungsklammer auf dem Logic Board.

  23. PTlZrQfxBSDgIQwn
    PTlZrQfxBSDgIQwn
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    • Die beiden Anschlüsse sind vielleicht mit einem einzelnen Klebestreifen gekoppelt. Wenn dies der Fall ist, lösen sie sich unter Umständen gemeinsam ab.

    • Löse die Kabel vom Power Button und vom Lautstärkeregler von ihren jeweiligen Anschlüssen auf dem Logic Board.

    Is this cable connector replaceable? I seem to have misplaced it when putting the phone back together. Actually don’t remember taking it out, but must have.

    vansan -

  24. IY2GKVO1TxsDUsQ2
    • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die 5 GHz Wi-Fi Antenne im Rückgehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 2,8 mm Schraube

    • Zwei 1,6 mm Schrauben

    One of the two 1.6 mm screws is covered by a black sticker fwi

    Dirk Gunderson -

  25. 6Vww1vLsphDWBToQ
    6Vww1vLsphDWBToQ
    mLEHiqGHLTRZlSSr
    • Greife mit einer Pinzette die 5 GHz Wi-Fi Antenne und entferne sie aus dem iPhone.

    • Achte während dem Zusammenbau darauf, die kleine Unterlegscheibe in der linken oberen Ecke der 5 GHz Wi-Fi Antenne zu platzieren.

    Thank you for teaching me, i have my iphone 6 plus just got grayed wifi and circling bluetooth, i tried network reset, didnt work yet, thanks alot

    William -

  26. AovqSUZQK5TQVRsA
    AovqSUZQK5TQVRsA
    ORdCrgOUZFnZMWlT
    • Hebel mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Anschlusskabel des Vibrationsmotors von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.

    grabauski -

  27. xGo5xDC6vBwqPx1y
    • Löse mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Ösenkabel der Antenne von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  28. d52RsIbXRLhPVU6b
    d52RsIbXRLhPVU6b
    ISjIxlFFvKOLyY1L
    • Greife das Ösenkabel der Antenne mit einer Pinzette und führe es vorsichtig aus dem Kanal der Vibrationseinheit.

  29. wwVBCsFVYIhoQ4xR
    • Entferne die beiden 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die den Vibrationsmotor am Gehäuse befestigen.

    These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions

    tony aviles -

    if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.

    Sarah Ybarra -

    There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.

    Now,Method one: use a rubberband

    Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.

    GoodLuck

    Vegeta Barrett -

  30. 3JOrMEFNOrgBSYnE
    • Entferne den Vibrationsmotor aus dem iPhone.

  31. AIJyAAFalTyhlXfH
    AIJyAAFalTyhlXfH
    KYDyb4cToHlqaZBD
    • Stecke ein SIM-Karten Eject Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch des SIM-Karten Einsatzes.

    • Drücke, um den Einsatz auszuwerfen.

    • Dies benötigt vielleicht mehr Kraft als gedacht.

  32. YljC6pEu3EHAtLKb
    • Entferne den SIM-Karten Einsatz aus dem iPhone.

    • Achte beim wieder einsetzen darauf, dass die SIM-Karte in der korrekten Ausrichtung im Einsatz steckt.

  33. fxownC3PGcvJQQRl
    • Entferne mit einer Pinzette jegliches Band, was die linke obere Schraube der Rückkamera bedeckt.

  34. gsRjqmltFGfCRMFF
    • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben von der Abdeckung der Rückkamera:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

    In my case, the rear facing camera was connected to the antenna clip with a piece of black tape, the two can come off together if removed very carefully

    derwentx -

  35. TSFYocEGRn6RfjJD
    • Entferne die Abdeckung von der Rückkamera.

    On my iPhone 6+, the screw removed in step 41 had to come off too as the part number A21-2247A is attached to this cover… seems to have a tiny coil or other component connecting the (ground) post at the 1.6mm screw in step 41

    Matthew Goheen -

    Apparently the antenna clip in step 41 has self adhered to my rear facing camera cover… had I not already removed the screw from step 41 it would have broken when I pulled that cover with just two screws off

    Matthew Goheen -

    WARNING:

    When doing this step 35, you must do step 41 (Simply undo the small screw under “One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw “ as well) .

    Step 42 shows a ribbon. This ribbon seems to be stuck on the rear-facing camera bracket (step 35).. so pulling rear-facing camera bracket off  , be careful it is not adhered and pulling off Step 42 ‘s ribbon!

    It is electronic and a ribbon.

    Anyname -

  36. rTPYFRBa41aqguHt
    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Rückkamera vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nur den Anschluss löst und nicht am Logic Board selbst hebelst, du könntest es sonst beschädigen.

  37. hAQuTADJHht2a3q1
    • Entferne vorsichtig die Rückkamera aus dem iPhone.

  38. xFmY4dAlKNdHAR5u
    • Entferne die einzelne 2,8 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die die Plastikklammer am Gehäuse befestigt.

    hallo,

    ich habe versucht das Gehäuse zu wechseln, dabei ist mir diese schraube der Plastikklammer im Gehäuse kaputt gegangen, heißt der Schraubenkopf ist rund. Ich habe es auch schon mit Sekundenkleber versucht, hat aber auch nicht geholfen.

    Da wollte ich jetzt wissen welche Aufgabe die Plastikklammer hat und ob man die sich irgendwo bestellen kann.

    Mfg

    denisekoch163 -

  39. kZ5UUturopjmHChR
    • Entferne die einzelne 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die in den oberen Rand des Gehäuses eingelassen ist.

  40. 4lLbcL6MVWPUnf5c
    4lLbcL6MVWPUnf5c
    tghOPrBLost3kShD
    • Greife vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette die Plastikklammer und entferne Sie aus dem iPhone.

  41. ysXPiAXcqmYMDUBC
    • Entferne die einzelne 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die die Klammer der Antenne am Gehäuse befestigt.

  42. EWu3hYty2ajRRoh4
    EWu3hYty2ajRRoh4
    3WDFtiFkkFnrfbg4
    • Greife vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette die Klammer der Antenne und entferne Sie aus dem iPhone.

    Hello

    My iPhone After opening the security screw Antenna

    Please help me find the antenna does not find

    saeed -

    You may need this part… on mine it was stuck enough to the rear facing camera cover that it almost broke when I tried to remove the cover before taking this screw out.

    Matthew Goheen -

    WARNING

    This should be done in Step 35!

    This ‘clip’ is a small ribbon with electronics on it. Be careful.

    This clip can be adhered to the Step 35 part removal. Careful to not rip it.

    Anyname -

  43. FahLirXTL5tdWkkb
    • Entferne die drei folgenden Schrauben, die das Logic Board am Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,4 mm Abstandsschrauben

    • Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am besten mit einem iPhone Standoff Bit (Abstandsschrauben-Bit) und einem Bithalter herausdrehen. Es geht auch mit einem kleinen Schlitzschraubendreher, du musst dabei aber aufpassen, dass du nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

    • Eine 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00

  44. K5pAcseIKetaxeWS
    • Hebe das Logic Board vorsichtig an der unteren Ecke nahe dem Lightning Connector etwas an, ohne es ganz zu entfernen.

  45. atW5AjFNAcBwDaHB
    • Entferne das Logic Board noch nicht. Es ist durch den Antennenanschluss immer noch mit dem Gehäuse verbunden.

    • Hebe die Unterseite des Logic Board so weit an, dass es im 90° Winkel zum Gehäuse steht.

    WARNING

    Antenna connector under top end of the board is what is being shown here, simply pry it down to disconnect it and you won’t have to flip the board up so high as seen in the photo.

    To reinstall, you then have to lift the board up somewhat to align it, and use tweezers. (careful the tweezers doesn’t touch a component on the top of the board)

    Anyname -

  46. nqaHqKZ4PqgwSUC4
    nqaHqKZ4PqgwSUC4
    FHPAjrOTWBYTnDdg
    • Lege das Logic Board vorsichtig falsch herum, mit dem oberen Rand leicht auf dem Gehäuse, ab.

    • Trenne mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Anschluss der Antenne von seinem Sockel auf der Rückseite des Logic Board.

  47. 43f6wblyaZrDvpUR
    • Entferne das Logic Board aus dem iPhone.

    When replacing the Logic board don't forget to check the top two connectors above the battery to make sure that they are free and clear to replace on the board when the time comes.

    Mark Waddington -

    Advice on reassembly

    Look carefully with reading glasses at the ribbon connections. Make sure there is no damage or any spec inside the connection. To put together a ribbon onto the board, start with a side and press down. LOOK at the connection carefully and take your time. IF you align it on top of it instead of starting on a side, then press down and lift the phone up in different directions to see different angles of the ‘fit’. You want it flat and not have a side of the connection sticking out of the board at all. You will reassemble the phone and have lines on the screen or abnormal operation if you don’t be careful and attentive with the cable connections.

    Make sure the grove the display fits in - is clean. Make sure the grove of the display is clean.

    Make sure you have mapped out where the screws go… they are different sizes, and head shapes.. look for a washer on one of them.. very top left wifi black plastic part. (Step 24 =red)

    Step 29-30 .. 2 springs under it.

    Step 42 & 35 done at the same time.

    Anyname -

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

Jeff Suovanen

Mitglied seit: 06/08/13

407156 Reputation

31 Kommentare

Hello. Good job on these teachings of disassembly. I need help in changing the logic board of my iphone 5 and iphone 6. Where can i buy the logic board? I reside in Nigeria

Kesiah -

HI do you know who replaces logic boards on iPhone 6?

neffangelica -

I am on Step 29 and the upper-right screw was stripped in manufacturing and I am not able to remove? What is the best way to remove the stripped screw?

Jon Pellant -

if u can melt a pen and stick it on then twist it if that dosen’t work use a dermel cut the screw and use a flahead

Albert lam -

Is there anyone who has this service Im willing to pay someone who's legit

IBeDECK -

can someone tell me where to buy this logic board cant find it

greg -

La verdad es muy fácil el cambio

Bonifacio Godinez -

Is there a certain logic board for each company like sprint and T-Mobile?

octoturtleouss -

is there any difference in 6 plus logic boards, I'm trying to buy a new logic board but I need to know if any 6plus logic board will do or if I have to follow model number

DeVaughn Carmon -

try fully charging your battery and the white lines may resolve themselves. I had that issue and read a lot of repair specialists say that resolved the white line issue after about 24 hours. I ended up needing a new screen. My husband damaged my digitizer connectors when he tried to fix my phone.

Nellydlally -

What does the logic board do? My little boy wet my phone and plugged it in and said it vibrated and died. It won't come on. I would like to fix it on my own. I fixed both my 5s's. It's just depressing how much money in broken "I" devices I have laying around!

Nellydlally -

I need help in changing the logic board of my iPhone 6 plus. Where can i buy the logic board in Saudi Arabia?

alatawi1pd -

iphone 6plus is not charging, already changed the lightning ribbon cable along the bottom, anything else to try?

kev mc -

how much does the mother board cost?

annahub -

What kind of the board do u need ?

Fixing up -

Is step 46 a discenection of a gps flex?

Michal Míka -

I have a 6 with a good logic board and a 6s with water damage, are the logic boards in the 6 and 6s interchangeable?

Steven Weeks -

No way. those are different

David Reva -

If i replace the mother board and logic board will it fix the touch screen issue? Is there a replacement kit that comes with the mother board and logic board and the home button so i can have the touch id

Amanda Henderson -

Yes it will fix the issue, but only way to pair I touch is by Apple authorized service

hersheys247 -

I´m just replaced logic board but iPone don´t turn on. Wha can I do?

David Reva -

I completed this guide because I had the touch disease problem with my iPhone, I cust out Post-IT’s (7pieces) on the glued side of them so they would stay on top of each other and applied them directly on the touch IC on the back side of the logic board. Put everything back together and now after 3 weeks, my iPhone still works as expected! Thanks a lot for this very clear tear down!

Wannes -

Where would be a good place to find an iphone 6s+ motherboard with a home button?

Santiago Fernandez -

My iPhone 6 plus does not boot - it’s always black, and nothing pops up in iTunes when connected with my Mac.

How could I know what issue it is and buy the right parts? It could be battery, screen, or logic board…

Peter F -

Great instructional document! Was not able to repair the water damage to the logic board, but WAS able to disassemble and reassemble perfectly. The phone fired right back and was acting the same as when I took it apart. If I can find a new logic board, I feel confident enough to try this again with the new part! THANKS!!

Anne Hamilton -

Thank you somuch…. I have replaced my Apple iPhone 6 Plus logic board with the help of this guide and now is working well… thanks to good work and keep it up…

Cheers…..

Shiran Gunasekara -

I see where there are Bare Motherboards for less than $20. How difficult is it to use the Bare Motherboards?

. Naturally some units have to be added to the Bare Motherboard.

John Drew -

Unfortunately bare boards are useful for soldering practice, and little else. In order to source a complete set of chips and SMT components, solder them to the board, test everything and get it working, you’d need so much skilled labor that it would probably outweigh the cost of just buying a new phone many times over. It’d be a heck of a cool project, but not practical for any repair purpose. Sorry!

Jeff Suovanen -

Nice format of part removal to mother board, to be more complete add re-assembly with cautions… great photography , Walter from Massachusetts

waltert2005 -

very good… i like so mx

João -

My iPhone 6 plus won't turn on after I played Roblox too much it overheated and shut off. It kept shutting off and turning back on but I didn't really care lol. How do I know if the problem is the motherboard cuz I literally changed the entire battery and it still ain't turning on. Idk wut to do

Blair Asher -