Google Pixel 5 Rear Camera Assembly Replacement

Written By: Robert Boyd

Comments: 11

Google Pixel 5 Rear Camera Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

40 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to remove and replace the rear camera assembly on the Google Pixel 5. Both cameras modules are replaced as a single unit.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for one minute.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

It would be helpful to know for how long ally the heated pad

Yuri Deglin -

Step 2

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, take note of the following:
Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the screen—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen and its bezel frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 5

Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the heated edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, follow this guide to tape over the cracked screen. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.
Insert the opening pick into the gap.

"Insert the opening pick into the gap." NOT the gap under the glass, the second gap... If not you will probably break your screen, at least I did. Especially important if your pixel 5 shipped with the screen gap :(

Alex Beaven (Nevbox) -

Step 6

Slide the opening pick back and forth along the bottom of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 7

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for one minute.

Step 8

Insert another opening pick into the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick around the left corner.
Do not insert the pick more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) or you may damage the screen's flex cable located in the middle of the left edge.
Continue to slide the pick up towards the front camera to slice the adhesive on the left edge of the screen.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Insert another opening pick into the top left corner of the screen.
Slide the pick around the front camera and across the top edge of the phone.
If the adhesive is difficult to slice, apply heat to the area for one minute and try again.
Slide the pick to the top right corner of the phone and leave the pick inserted.

Step 10

Insert an opening pick into the bottom right corner of the screen.
Slide the pick up to the top right corner to slice the last edge of adhesive.
You may need to run an opening pick around the edges again to ensure all the adhesive is cut. It is applied the thickest on the four corners.

Step 11

Use the opening pick from the top left corner to lift up the left edge of the screen a few millimeters. This will keep the clips from snapping back down into the case.
Lift up on the right side of the screen and open up the phone like a book.
Do not open the screen more than 90 degrees to prevent damaging the screen flex cable.

Step 12

Use tweezers to grip the screen connector cover securing the screen flex cable.
Push the clip in towards the connector to unlatch it.

I found it easier to use the spudger here rather than the tweezers (which have sharp ends that could damage something if you happen to slip).

tristanwaddington -

some 5a models will have a screw instead of clip , here's a photo https://imgur.com/a/9dZG5pQ

Daniel Gonzales -

Step 13

Remove the screen connector cover.
Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.

Step 14

Use the tip of the spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage

The curved ends of the blue iFixit Opening Tool helped me reseat the connector when installing the new screen.

tristanwaddington -

Step 15

Remove the screen.
Use tweezers to pick off the remaining adhesive on the case.
If your replacement screen's display cable is held down by tape, remove the tape before installation.
If you are using a custom-cut adhesive, follow this guide to correctly apply new screen adhesive.
If you are using Tesa tape to reattach the screen, follow this guide.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.
If you use isopropyl alcohol to clean the adhesive off the display, be sure to not let it splash onto any unintended components, as this can weaken their adhesive bond.

Where from we can buy the screen. Thanks

Ajay Sharma -

the screen does not fit

Joel Kelly -

Step 16

Use tweezers to lift up the graphite tape until you are able to grip it with your fingers.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.
Peel off the graphite tape.

Step 17

Use tweezers to peel off the graphite pad covering the charging plate cover.
If you are able to keep the graphite pad in good condition, you may reapply it during reassembly.

Step 18

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.6 mm-long screws securing the charging plate cover to the midframe.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 19

Use tweezers to remove the charging plate cover.
Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.

Step 20

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.6 mm-long screws securing the midframe.

Step 21

Use tweezers to lift up the right side of the midframe.
Remove the midframe.
The spacer at the top of the phone is likely to fall out when you remove the midframe. Remember to save this spacer for reassembly. See pictures in the motherboard replacement guide.

Removing the midframe may cause a metal-foam spacer above the light sensor to pop out. After placing in the midframe on re-assembly, you can use the tweezers to squeeze the spacer back in between the midframe and the metal divider near the top of the phone.

Dumpy Sheep -

There is a picture of this spacer at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Google+Pixe.... To replace it, first replace the midframe. Then, before screwing the midframe back down, use the tweezers to pinch the space together, compressing the foam in the middle, and slide it into place.

soren -

Step 22

Use the pointed end of the spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.

Step 23

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.1 mm shouldered screw.

Step 24

Use the spudger to disconnect the two rear camera press connectors from the motherboard.
Use your finger to hold down the rear camera assembly and prevent bending the motherboard.

Step 25

Use tweezers to lift up on the rear camera assembly to remove it from its housing.
If your replacement camera module has a plastic spacer, be sure to remove it before you install the module.
Make sure the lens surface is smudge and dust free before you install the camera assembly.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Robert Boyd

Member since: 01/02/21

22135 Reputation

2 comments

Hi! Will this procedure mess with the IP68 certification?

Mariano Jurío - 26/04/21

Hi Mariano! That would depend on well you were able to replace the screen adhesive.

Robert Boyd -