Google Pixel 6a Front Camera Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 15

Google Pixel 6a Front Camera Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the front camera is your Google Pixel 6a.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: this guide was made using the Verizon GB62Z model, which features a 5G mmWave antenna. Ignore the steps that include the 5G mmWave antenna if you have a different model, as the procedure is identical.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Step 1

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 2

Completely power off your phone before you begin.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

What's a good temperature to set to hotplate to for a repair like this?

David -

I used a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive. Unfortunatly the IOpener did not work for me. Even with the hair dryer, it was quiet difficult to soften the adhesive. It might have been due to the phone beeing only a few months old.

It was quiet difficult to seperate the screen, but it eventuelly worked. I feel like it took the heat a while to move through the cover and heat up all of the adhesive. After almost giving up, I tried again after a few minutes without heating it again and it suddenly worked. So keep that in mind.

LetsTryThisNext -

Agree with LetsTryThisNext's comment -- it takes a while for the adhesive to loosen. Expect to be at it for 20, 30 minutes -- with the iOpener not working (for me either), re-microwaving the iOpener, then hair dryer, then suction cup not sticking, etc. Good idea to give it a few minutes between each heating attempt.

Steve -

Step 3

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, take note of the following:
Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the bezel seam when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 6

Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the bezel and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Would be helpful to have alternative solutions offered here for those with shattered screens, since suction cups don't work.

Paul York -

Hi Paul.

Thank you for your comment! I have updated the step to provide an alternative solution for shattered screens.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl - 22/11/22

Would just like to note that in my particular case even tape or super glue did not work, due to the screen being shattered right along the spot where you need to place the suction cup. I ended up resorting to inserting a razor blade into the seam to open it just enough to insert the pick.

mkirwin -

I'm in the same boat as mkirwin no amount of pulling with the suction cup worked, I had to use a razor blade to get the seam separated enough to insert a pick. Maybe I didn't heat up the adhesive enough but that stuff is super strong

Tanner Davis -

If your suction cup is not working properly: Heat it up a little bit and it will have a lot more suction.

LetsTryThisNext -

Ditto, needed to use a razor blade to get it started. Thank you mkirwin & Tanner D for posting that tip here.

Steve -

Step 7

While still applying suction, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
Carefully push the pick in while prying to reposition the opening pick into the bezel seam.
Only insert the pick up to 3.5 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

Unfortunatly my plectrums I got with the pro tool kit bent way too easy to open up this first crack between screen and housing. But the reason might have been, that the adhesive was not soft enough yet

LetsTryThisNext -

Step 8

Slide the pick along the right edge to release the plastic clips securing the bezel to the frame.
Position the pick at the top-right edge before moving to the next step.

Step 9

Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the phone to release the clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top-right corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.
Only insert the pick up to 4 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

Step 10

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top edge to release the clips.
When slicing around the front camera, only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the lens.

Step 11

Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the phone to release the clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top-left corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.

I found that using the side of the pick instead of the point made it easier to keep from over-inserting the pick and it provided more area to keep the glass separated from the frame. It was also easier to slide it around the edges this way. Still had to use the point to get under the frame initially.

mark schneider -

Step 12

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the left edge to release the clips.
Only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the internals.
Repeat the rotating and sliding procedure for the remaining edge.
At this point, the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to release any remaining clips.

Step 13

Don't try to remove the screen all the way yet. It's still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.

Step 14

The display cable bracket is secured with metal clips.
Use tweezers to bend the left side of the bracket upwards, releasing the metal clip.
Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 15

Be very careful performing this step, as you risk damaging tiny components around the press connector.
Insert the tip of a spudger under the left edge of the display cable press connector.
Pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

be incredibly careful when removing and installing the cable, the many tiny components along the edge and under the tab are incredibly fragile. This is one of, if not, the most important step.

Jeffrey Leon -

At this step I had some trouble to reattach the connector. When I pushed down one side the other would pop up again. I solved the issue by carefully pressing down both sides with the tweezers.

LetsTryThisNext -

Step 16

If you're reusing your screen, follow this guide to reapply adhesive to the screen.
If you're replacing the screen, follow these instructions:
Follow this guide to reapply adhesive to the screen
Be sure to remove all adhesive liners from your replacement screen, including the front-facing camera recess
Perform a fingerprint sensor calibration
If you're having trouble performing the calibration, you might need to download the Google USB Driver

Don't forget the display cable bracket folks! This was my first at home repair and Im kicking myself forgetting the bracket.

Tanner Davis -

The fingerprint sensor calibration is impossible to complete in some cases. No matter what, I get an error "Your phone's current software version: TQ2A.230305.008.E1 is newer than this repair tool has." from the google software updater. This indicates it is a known issue "https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/2... not fixed for a year. The Google USB driver does not help if you're not on Windows and get this error. I tried on both mac and linux, no dice.

I'm SOL without a fingerprint sensor. Screen works again though, and everything else went ok with the repair.

Scott Carey -

Step 17

Use tweezers to peel back the silver tape connecting the midframe and the top speaker.
Don't completely remove the tape. You only need to remove the bridge between the midframe and the top speaker.

Step 18

Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the two screws on both sides of the USB-C port.

Step 19

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 16 screws securing the midframe to the frame:
Nine 4.3 mm screws
Four 2.9 mm screws
Two 4.9 mm screws
One 4.6 mm screw

Step 20

Insert a spudger between the top of the midframe and the frame, near the front camera.
Pry up with the spudger to release the top of the midframe from its clips.

Step 21

Insert a spudger between the bottom left of the midframe and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the bottom of the midframe from its clips.

Step 22

Remove the midframe.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 23

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the midframe.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste to your device.

Step 24

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector.

Step 25

If your device doesn't have a 5G mmWave antenna, skip the next four steps.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 26

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the bracket towards the right edge of the phone and disconnect its clip.
Remove the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 27

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna's press connector.

Step 28

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the 5G mmWave antenna.

Step 29

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the ultrawide rear camera's press connector.
Remove the ultrawide rear camera.

Step 30

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wide rear camera's press connector.
Remove the wide rear camera.

Step 31

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the motherboard.

Step 32

Insert a spudger between the top of the motherboard and the frame, near the front camera.
Pry up to lift the motherboard until you can grip it with your fingers.

Step 33

Tilt the top of the motherboard upwards to release its plastic clips.
Remove the motherboard.

Step 34

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera's press connector located on the bottom of the logic board.
Remove the front camera.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Google Pixel 6a Answers community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

68841 Reputation

Google Pixel 6a Front Camera Replacement

Introduction

Tools

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