iPhone 14 Pro Max Battery Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 3

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace a worn-out or dead battery in your iPhone 14 Pro Max.

iPhone batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. After that, your iPhone may need to be charged far more frequently, and iOS may warn you that performance is affected (in other words, your phone will run slower).

This guide was created using the A2894 (international) model. If you're fixing a different iPhone 14 Pro Max model, there may be some visual discrepancies, but the procedure should be the same.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your device. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach the battery and the screen when reassembling the device. Your device will function normally, but will most likely lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Step 2

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the screen, making it easier to open.
Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 5

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your opening pick.

Step 6

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

Step 7

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the screen in place.
Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm inside your phone, or you may damage the display cables.

Step 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

Step 9

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 3 mm into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

Step 11

Insert your pick underneath the top right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and half way across the top edge stopping right before the earpiece speaker cut-out.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Step 12

Insert your pick underneath the top-left edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-left corner and half way across the top edge stopping right before the earpiece speaker cut-out.
Again, don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Don't try to fully separate the screen yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

Step 13

Open your iPhone by swinging the screen up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
Lean the screen against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
If you don't have anything at hand to lean the screen against, your suction handle can do the trick.
During reassembly, lay the screen in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the screen down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the screen and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 14

Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the battery connector cover:
Six 1.3 mm-long screws
One 1.6 mm-long screw
One 1.9 mm-long screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the screen in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 15

Grasp the connector cover with a pair of tweezers and slide it downwards to clear the flex cables.
Remove the connector cover.

Step 16

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 17

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the first display cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 18

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the second display cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 19

Remove the screen.
Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the screen adhesives.

Step 20

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.5 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker:
Three smaller-headed screws
One larger-headed screw

Step 21

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the loudspeaker from the bottom right corner of the phone.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers to grab the loudspeaker.
Tilt the loudspeaker to separate it from the adhesive-backed strip that leads to the Taptic Engine.
Remove the loudspeaker.
When reinstalling the loudspeaker, place it in its recess battery-side first to align it with the adhesive-backed strip.

Step 23

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 24

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
One 1.8 mm-long screw
One 2.3 mm-long screw
Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long standoff screw securing the Taptic Engine.
Standoff screws are best removed using a dedicated standoff driver or driver bit. In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 26

If your replacement part didn’t come with the plastic strip along the top of the Taptic Engine, you'll need to transfer it to your replacement part.
Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to gently peel the adhesive-backed strip off of the Taptic Engine.

Step 27

Four stretch-release adhesive strips secure the battery to the rear case—two on the bottom edge of the battery, and two on the top edge.
Each adhesive strip has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.
In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. These "command-strip" style adhesives lose their stick when stretched, so you can remove the battery with ease.
If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for tips on removing broken strips.

Step 28

Caution: Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.
Use a pair of blunt-nosed tweezers to peel down the two battery adhesive pull-tabs along the bottom edge of the battery.

Step 29

Grab the first pull-tab with your fingers or wrap it around a spudger and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
If any of the adhesive strips break off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 30

Grab the second pull-tab with your fingers or the center of a spudger and pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Follow the same procedure as with the previous strip: don't press down on the battery, keep the strip flat and unwrinkled, and pull at a low angle.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, continue with the next step.

Step 31

Use a pair of blunt-nosed tweezers and an opening pick to peel up the two remaining battery adhesive pull-tabs from the top edge of the battery.

Step 32

Using the same procedure as before, pull the third tab from underneath the battery. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.

Step 33

Pull the remaining adhesive tab using the same procedure. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.
Be careful not to fling the battery from the iPhone as the final adhesive strip comes out.
If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
Otherwise, continue with the next step below.

Step 34

If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

Step 35

Remove the battery.
Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off before installing your new battery.
If your new battery didn't come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Conclusion

If possible, turn on your device and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. During reassembly apply new adhesive where necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

167396 Reputation

3 comments

Very good.

Perfict structure for changing the battery

Islam Bahgat -

Once I have followed all the steps and have removed the battery, how do I reconstruct the iPhone afterwards? Do I just do the steps again, but in reverse order? Help would be much appreciated.

Louis Osborne -

Hi Louis,
to reassemble your device, you need to follow these instructions in reverse order. During reassembly apply new adhesive where necessary after cleaning the relevant areas e.g. with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Dominik Schnabelrauch -