iPhone 8 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 78

iPhone 8 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire screen.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 8 Plus LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid-state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

Note: If your iPhone’s auto brightness feature does not work properly after your screen repair, make sure your iPhone is updated to iOS 12. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

what do I do about super stripped screws?

Ean Palacios - 13/09/20

I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.

Adam O'Camb - 29/03/21

Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit

Adam Palmer - 26/12/20

Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.

Kyle Luksa - 26/03/21

Step 2

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?

Martin Speedy - 06/07/18

When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.

Jeff Suovanen - 06/07/18

I had issues getting the suction cup to stick on my cracked screen, so I tried using scotch tape (only tape I had around), but it didn’t work. This best thing I did was to forcefully pry the screen off (I wasn’t worried about damages because it’s already cracked) with the spudger. I think its best to find something stickier (like Duct Tape) and used that to lift up the screen.

Definitely surprised how sticky the adhesive was.

Jeffrey Robinos - 28/09/18

When using packing tape: the suction won’t hold well with the overlapping pieces, so add a square of tape where you want to put the suction cup, so it will provide an unbroken surface for the seal.

Christa - 23/10/18

It’s amazing how a heat gun or hair dryer makes life easier to soften up the adhesive. Then use a thin iSesame opening tool to get in under the screen (start @ 90 degrees/vertical either side of the home button & slowly go horizontal) the need to use suction cups. Run the opening tool along the front and down both sides to cut the adhesive before trying to lift the screen.

Cheers Wayne

Wayne Lyell - 14/11/18

I didn’t have a hair dryer so I (gingerly) used an iron over some wet coffee filters (I mean , it is waterproof) . Then, quickly dried i off with paper towels, used gorilla tape and my fixit metal splunger . worked like a charm .

MajorCouillon - 17/10/20

What about baby cracks? skip to step 3 or not…

Andruw Holland - 10/12/20

As others have mentioned, suction cup and tape doesn’t work. I used the blade of a box cutter (watch fingers) and inserted just below and right of home button. Then moved spudger along the crack to tear adhesive/seal. Easy peasy.

Stephen Smith - 18/05/21

Step 3

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and for the bottom of the screen to open.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 6

Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Warning ! If you pull too hard (reheat the underside of the display again), you create an gap of air between the glass and the lcd display !

When you replace the display assembly you end up with gray stains on the display.

Result: you have to buy a new display (assembly).

Arnoud - 27/09/20

Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.

Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.

Chris - 30/09/20

I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.

Kyle Luksa - 26/03/21

I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.

Ben Vinnerd -

I can’t get the single suction cup to work. Hate being stuck on the simplest step!

Donny -

My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.

Michael Scroop -

Step 7

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.

Kenneth Ewald, Sr. -

In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.

Kenneth Ewald, Sr. -

this was by far the most difficult part. be diligent and follow the “firm and constant pressure” guide... the “gap” will be extremely “slight”. you will be able to slide a corner of the pry tool even if you cannot see the gap.

Colleen V -

Step 8

Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.

Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(

The instruction should be:

“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”

Leonardo Piga -

Step 9

Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.

Jessica Kirsh - 05/09/20

Step 10

Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

Step 11

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 12

Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.

Gerdschi D -

Step 13

Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Step 14

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.

Matze Diamond - 13/10/19

Das ist falsch. Wenn man auf das iPhone sieht, ist der Home Button unten. Auf dem Photo ist deutlich sichtbar, dass die linke Seite angehoben wird.

Hans -

Step 15

Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
Two 1.3 mm screws
One 1.4 mm screw
One 2.7 mm screw
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.

Jack Harry -

Step 16

Remove the lower display cable bracket.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).

browniestarmite - 13/01/19

Step 18

Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.

Here is my problem:

When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?

smikalsen - 18/10/20

Hi,

Is your problem solved?

Daniel Leprince - 11/01/21

Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.

Chris Cerrudo -

Step 19

Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.

Jessica Kirsh - 08/09/20

Step 20

Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:
One 1.0 mm screw
One 1.2 mm screw

una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???

Matteo Carachino - 25/09/19

Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire

Claire Miesch - 26/09/19

The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?

peter frommer - 15/04/20

Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.

hypercarduser - 26/04/20

My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.

Christopher Shane Gripp -

There is no such thing as a trigger point y000 screwdriver. Why couldn't they use Philips like the rest of the screws.Nobody knows what these trips point y000 even look like. this is a scam to force you to buy a new phone.

Al tb -

Step 21

Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 22

Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

What happens is this strip is torn and how does one fix it

Mijinyawa Dauda -

Step 23

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?

Paul Santora -

Step 24

Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:
Two 1.8 mm screws
One 2.3 mm screw
One 2.4 mm screw
One 2.8 mm screw

Step 25

Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.
Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

Step 27

Remove the earpiece speaker.

Step 28

Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

Step 29

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
The sensors in the following steps are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, repeatedly add more heat as needed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

Step 30

Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

Step 31

Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

Step 32

Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.
Use an iOpener or hair dryer as needed to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.
Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

FYI i think you should put up a warning on which side you should start the prying from. If you start prying from the top there’s a risk of prying apart the two parts of the flex cables that are soldered together. If you start from the bottom as pictured you should be safer, but I think it should be specified in text on this guide… because I managed to do this mistake and have to order the whole front cam/speaker/etc. assembly now. My own fault but still, haha!

Andreas Kokkinos - 25/09/21

Step 33

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.
Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger underneath the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

Step 34

Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.
A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.
When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.

Why is the insulating tape needed, and what other materials should I using instead of it if I loose the tape?

jhtran1234 - 29/10/18

I moved the insulating tape from the broken screen to the new screen.

browniestarmite - 13/01/19

Don’t forget to check if your new screen assembly has the two plastic pieces for the camera and proximity detector. You’ll need to move them from the old screen if it doesn’t have them.

browniestarmite - 13/01/19

Hi, is it possible for the flex cable to work without placing he tape over the contacts?

Thanks

shaneyarrow - 04/04/19

I forgot to add move the double sided tape over and I’m wondering if that was why my ear speaker wasn’t working. I opened it back up and put the tape on the new screen but the speaker is still not working. Any ideas? Did the speaker “short” out?

Ming - 24/10/19

Mine the same , did you solve the problem? Thank you

Marco Mazzini - 03/06/20

I bought the ifixit tool kit iPhone plus 8 screen. Do i need to skip this step ? (not sure)

Marcial Vazquez - 10/08/20

Whenever I had my camera unit and speaker in, it prevented my phone from charging or finding my sim. Any explanation for this? seems really strange to me

calumbrown15 -

Did anybody move the plastic piece for the camera? Is it glued? It looks like it might break easily.

Hans -

I did remove it before. u can wiggle it a little bit then pull it up, it won't break, and there's no glue at all.

iAziz -

Step 35

Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
One 1.2 mm screw
Three 1.3 mm screws
During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten these screws, or your home button may not work.

The 1.2mm screw on the home button stripped for me. I ended up bending the bracket on each side in order to remove the home button. I then bent it back as best I could during reassembly and screwing it down.

browniestarmite - 13/01/19

The leftmost screw here (attaching the display bracket to the front panel plastic) was not present on my aftermarket screen assembly. Had to pull it from the original.

handemail - 11/05/19

Step 36

Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

Step 37

Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.
If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

Step 38

Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.
Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
Don't overheat the display. It should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

Step 39

Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

This did not work for me…. ended up breaking the connector from the home button. Most likely messed up the customer’s iPhone… the adhesive would not pry up with just pick… does iFixit offer a home button replacement?

Sidar M Caceres - 19/05/20

did not work for me either, also ended up breaking the connector, just use the tweezer to separate it. do not use opening pick!!!!! it’s too thick for it!!

Jeffrey Tang - 22/10/20

Isopropanol and heat will loosen the adhesive and its possible to gently remove with plastic pick, metal tweezers risk damaging the Home button cable and disabling the Touch facility.

Chris Smith - 05/12/20

Pretty easy to follow instructions if you have patience and careful hands. If you have clumsy hands you will not succeed in fixing any small electronics. There are some small things you should use to help you succeed at fixing small electronics, like some scotch tape or other clear tape to hold some of the cables in place while you work on small electronics items, also a small heavy bottle or object to propped the iPhones cases against to hold them from falling over so that your hands can be free to perform your tasks. Great job you are doing iFixit personel and I am with you all the way with fighting for our rights to fix our electronics equipment.

wogriffith - 18/03/21

Isopropanol in conjunction with the heat really did the trick here. Heat up first, then use plenty of the alcohol to pry it up carefully using the pick.

Maximilian Krause - 05/04/21

Heat dryer on high worked for me.

Stephen Smith - 18/05/21

I followed exactly the method in Step 37. First, turn the screen over and warm up slightly around the home/Touch ID sensor , making the cable easier to come loose from the screen. I didn't use an opening pick, I used a spudger it worked fine, but be careful

clbr -

why is my home button attached to the lcd? there is no clip and makes it impossible to easily remove home button. help!!

Joel -

I also was mystified as to why I could not remove the home button after successfully removing the cable. Then I remembered that I had suggestion at step 4 and covered shattered screen with clear tape! Once tape was removed, button came out! LOL!

bseagrave -

I heated the tip of a thin knife with a hot air gun and slide it under the flexible cable. When I hit resistance I reheated the knife. Keeping it parallel to the board while doing this. After 4 heatings the knife moved the rest of the way and the cable lifted easily off of the iPhone back. This method left enough glue on the cable that it restuck fine when moved to the new iPhone.

Bill Auerbach -

Apple loves to make this the most difficult thing. I've been successful many times, and not so on other repairs. I just finished a repair and everything was in tact, but sadly it didn't work. Took a part and put back. So I turned on the assistive touch home button. They will be getting a new phone soon, so not a big issue except Pride.

Shawn Bailey -

Step 40

Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display as shown.
Your replacement part may come with extra Y000 screws already installed near the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screws so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

Step 41

Peel back the upper, rectangular portion of the LCD shield plate sticker to separate it from the flex cable underneath.
You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.

Not sure what this sticker is for exactly. It broke during reassembly. So far, so good.

browniestarmite - 13/01/19

I lost this sticker cuz it just tore out during removal and I thought it was unneeded adhesive. Now this rectangular part seems to be pushing against the LCD, causing color distortion near that point when assembled and distortion at that point when pressing the screen. D:

Lamp - 28/03/21

Is this sticker necessary to prevent the distortion?? or is my new lcd just defective with tolerances or something? how do I fix dis D:

Lamp - 28/03/21

AYY FIXED! The cables were naturally resting lower than they needed to be. I just pushed up on the block thing to pull the cables up right before snapping the screen on. I guess it was mis-aligned with its space it’s supposed to go in and was getting pushed on.

Lamp - 28/03/21

Step 42

Use a Y000 driver to remove three 1.2 mm screws from one side of the display EMI shield.
If you have trouble loosening these screws, press the driver harder onto the screw as you turn it. If necessary, use the flat edge of your spudger to brace each display clip from behind so you can apply more pressure to the screws, without bending the clips.

Step 43

Use a Y000 driver to remove two more 1.2 mm screws from the other side of the EMI shield.

Step 44

Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the EMI shield near the bottom of the display.

Step 45

Lift the LCD shield plate while pressing down on the flex cable it surrounds.
Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.

My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?

When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) Now the biggest problem is that both screens are pitch black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. What could this be? The screen worked before I tried to change it?!…

smikalsen - 18/10/20

Step 46

Remove the LCD shield plate.

Step 47

Only the LCD and digitizer remains.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406754 Reputation

8 comments

Bonjour,

Savez-vous si le problème de la fonction True Tone est résolu sous iOS 12.3.1 ?

Merci pour votre tutoriel : )

Merci pour votre réponse.

Cancan - 21/06/19

Truetone - Has anybody used the eprom programmer devices to transfer the id from the previous screen to the new one to rectify the truetone absence?

hardijs - 05/07/19

I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.

Already got all new part that I think I need.

Here is my problem:

When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are pitch black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. What could this be? The screen worked before I tried to change it?!…

smikalsen - 18/10/20

Hi smikalsen,

Did you disconnect the battery when you swapped the screens? If not, there is a chance that the screen backlight circuits are damaged as a result of disconnecting/reconnecting to a powered phone. With a screen connected and the phone powered on, shine a bright light directly at the screen. If you can faintly see the screen, it means that the LCD is working but the backlight is broken.

Arthur Shi - 20/10/20

Thank you Jeff for these very clear instructions, and for the warnings on cautions to take in the delicate steps. This guide was helpful in replacing my broken screen on an iPhone 8 Plus. Every step was successfully accomplished, and now my iPhone is back to life. Of course, as a caution I did a backup before starting all the procedures. Thanks again. Saul

Saul -

Okay can I bring it in

Kpehe Borlay -

Thanks Jeff for this really helpfull instruction.

I have a question about the colors displayed on the new display. I heard that you can restore TrueTone function using light sensor programmer. But before I invest another $40 in something I will use only once, I would like to ask if darker and very saturated colors on display is the fault of lack of TrueTone function or the fault of display itself?

Max Elearning -

Hi There. I have got one with damaged digitizer, but screen seemed to be intact. Is there a way to split the screen from digitizer and replace only digitizer ?

Second question is if i change the screen to aftermarket, would i loose functionality of true tones ect ?

Mariusz -