iPhone X Screen Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen
  • Comments: 222
iPhone X Screen Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

30

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Cracked screen? Touch not working? Bad OLED display? Use this guide to restore your iPhone X to working order with a new OLED screen and digitizer. Trying a new screen may also help if your iPhone X seemingly won’t turn on.

Note: The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one as instructed below during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: If your iPhone’s auto brightness feature does not work properly after your screen repair, make sure your iPhone is updated to iOS 12. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

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    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    There are 6.81mm long screws!

    Daniel -

    One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

    cgtyoder -

    same situation here

    kaunomarcius -

    Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

    patronics -

    Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

    patronics -

    I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

    cgtyoder -

    Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

    Kyle Harris -

    yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

    Dulce Vidal -

    This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…

    Uri -

    These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.

    Dan Long -

    @Dan Long is right

    Uri -

    Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

    William Olstad -

    The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

    justin -

    Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?

    Clarence Williams -

    William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.

    punkinann -

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    • If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?

    sabrihakulii -

    It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296

    When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…

    mcr4u2 -

    The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.

    Tawan Khamapirad -

    Very cool! Thanks

    Antonio -

    My screen was pretty stuck… would not budge. Heated, super glued the suction cup, tried gorilla tape. Ended up doing the GoPro mount with 3M VSB tape method mentioned. Worked great. That 3M tape is the bomb.

    Rich Wachtel -

    The included suction cup took a few tries but ended up working for me.

    charlotte -

    If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003 thick goes right in. Work your way up until you can get the pick or supplied pry tool in.

    William Olstad -

    where can I buy 3M VSB plis!!

    gerardo artigas cuellar -

    3M VHB tape is at auto stores and other big box stores, or online.

    nicO Gurney -

    I used the tweezers that came with the replacement screen and jammed one of them into the glass and that eventually worked. Heating with a blow dryer is also important. The suction cup was helpful in loosening the adhesive for sure, but just not enough to get the display to come out.

    J Olin -

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    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

    consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

    Uri -

    You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

    Sandman619 -

    Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

    dominique.br -

    When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

    jonpol -

    Is this tool required or can I just use the Anti-Clamp by itself.

    Mikail -

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    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

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    • Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.

    • Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

    • Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next two steps.

    DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

    Anessa -

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    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma -

    3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

    Tawan Khamapirad -

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    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma -

    The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

    Monil Shah -

    There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.

    Caleb Davison -

    DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

    Anessa -

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    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

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    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

    William Olstad -

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    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew -

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    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

    Mike Kostersitz -

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

    Richard Tucker -

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way  … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

    dabur872 -

    Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

    Alexander Nowak -

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    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.1 mm screws

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

    Rich May 23, 2020

    ungodly -

    My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

    So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

    That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

    I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

    vingu -

    My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

    Renout -

    Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.

    SETH GREEN -

    To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …

    Max Glanzmann -

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    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

    monastra7 -

    The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agree with Jeff

    cgtyoder -

    I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

    Monica -

    for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.

    James Stanbridge -

    Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.

    Max Glanzmann -

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    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

    luca.valli -

    note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

    Noal Balint -

    Thanks, already did it)

    Stephen Hedrick -

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    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

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    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

    Ray Johnson -

    Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

    Renout -

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

    Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

    Tawan Khamapirad -

    Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.

    Jeffrey Hoy -

    I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

    Pol Llovet -

    Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼

    Efrain Maestre -

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    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Do this sensor affect face id?

    bonglkv -

    It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

    Stephen Patterson -

    Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

    Jonathan Pines -

    My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

    William Olstad -

    Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

    Karl Jarvis -

    I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

    LosBenitos -

    Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

    huuhaukimngan -

    my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???

    Kenneth McLeod -

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    I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

    Alexis Rodriguez -

    At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

    Grant -

    Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

    Nicole -

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    • Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.

    Not sure as of what to do now, I have stripped this screw.

    Kelvin -

    It might be your driver tip that is no good. Try a new driver tip Y000

    carol -

    when I opened my iPhone the screw was already stripped, I had the phone once at an Apple store for repair about 2 years ago. Had not opened it in between so it seems they stripped the screw there or it came like that from the factory. Any ideas? I don’t want to try and force it out.

    Mike Kostersitz -

    Be careful: the metal clip beneath this screw it’s really small, make sure not losing it.

    Luca Ciprian -

    Steps 19 and on are all on the screen you just removed. Not the phone side. I didn’t look closely at the image and just went for the screw in roughly the same place on the phone body side. First warning sign it’s a phillips - but more importantly I was working on the entirely wrong piece. I guess you’ll probably figure it out faster than I did.

    Big Nerd -

    FYI: My iphone XS has a slightly different screw position for the one shown to have a “clip”. There is no clip for this screw on mine. Maybe a rev update because of the clip getting lost and being hard to reinstall?

    William Olstad -

    FYI - The sensor assembly of the replacement looks a bit different from my original one. The screw is located further to the right on the original. As a result, I am unable to attach the sensor assembly on the replacement part, because the fixture is at a different position.

    Unfortunately, there’s nothing I can do about it apart asking for a refund.

    Alexander Nowak -

    Screws at my Iphone X are normal,but even w heat,i cant take them off,and even the strongest member of my family cant do this

    Matej Sedivec -

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    • Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now.

    • During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.

    sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas

    Harizola Taberna Margari -

    Is there a way to just buy the gold grounding clip because my phone cannot search for wifi anymore!

    Anonymous -

    Is there any way we buy the ground metal clip separately please if there’s a way to get it emailed me

    Sisthanu Iman -

    Reinstalling this clip + screw is super hard =P

    Josh Estelle -

    It is pretty difficult without using a zoom in. A 2nd iphone camera zoomed in at 8x while using magnetic screwdrivers makes the job a little easier

    Bill McNamara -

    Yes eBay has it

    riosbenny09 -

    Screw Gasket Ear Speaker for Apple iPhone X Replacement Repair Phone Part Speak

    riosbenny09 -

    This looks different on my iPhone X. There’s no clip. It turns out that the replacement screen is NOT compatible with my iPhone. See my comment on Step 23. Must be a different HW revision. The whole front sensor assembly casting is a bit different. After replacing 2 screens of older iPhone generations this is my first failure due to HW incompatibility. From here on forward I probably won’t attempt another major smart phone repair. Technology is getting to complex for DIY. Will buy an iPhone 13 Pro with insurance (even though it’s utterly overpriced and I always like the DIY challenge)…

    Alexander Nowak -

    it’s not technology that’s getting more advanced, it’s apple creating more barriers between a DIY repair vs funneling your hard earned dollar into apple care and the Genius Bar

    aburningstariv -

    Que pasa si no pones ese clip?

    ferxi sabee -

  23. 4Kb3jqAynpWdjBRM

    • Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(

    Salvatore Boenzi -

    You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.

    Sandman619 -

    I would suggest:

    1. Try a small precision flat head, a good quality one, I bought some that were supposed to be to remove stripped screws, about 20-30 bucks for 4 or 5 of them, and they have saved my butt many times.

    2. I have been able to remove stripped screws with wire cutters. Or you can try some vamp pliers but they are probably too large for this situation.

    3. If the last two fail, the course of action is to basically destroy the head of that screw (assuming you are removing the stuff you need for your new lcd, which is very likely) they have drill bits called easy outs or screw removing drill bit, which is a drill bit with the spiral going the opposite direction (for a screw that tiny you can take a small drill bit, cut and sharpen the end that normally has no spiral, I have made that work in the past) the point is that as you drill in, the drill bit is digging and moving counterclockwise, so at some point as it digs in it will get “stuck” and keep spinning go the screw, thus removing it.

    Victor Miranda -

    what to do if during assembly the 1.6mm doesn’t want to go in it’s hole in the new screen but it fits perfectly in the old one??

    Khalil -

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    • The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.

    • Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

    • The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

    i damage the cable, where can i buy a replacemnt

    Haoyu Li -

  25. IMK3KnrhWJuxFUWN

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

    que temperatura debe tener una estacion de calor para hacer el trabajo del iopener

    mismac -

    I could not have done this without the iOpener, it was worth the investment!

    Bill Debevc -

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    • Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

    • Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

    • If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

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    • Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

    • Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

    • It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

    i can i purchase this part

    M. Brown -

    yes mr.brown, you can

    MadMan2207 -

    if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/micro phone unrecoverable?

    green_g -

  28. icM4yFheSWePAfUV
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    • Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

    • The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

  29. WaBjMZVpgqcXCFpM
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    • If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.

    • If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.

    • During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

    • Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

    quá rõ ràng, cảm ơn ifixit

    Dang Tuan -

    In my case the diffuser came out with the light sensor, but not completely. A layer of the diffuser was left behind in the recess. We will see how it goes. ;) I will report back.

    Pol Llovet -

    what colour is the diffuser

    James Thomas (Tom) -

    also can you show the position of sensors going back into the new screen

    James Thomas (Tom) -

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    • Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

    • During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

    • Proximity sensor

    • Flood illuminator

    • The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

    there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??

    0perationguttertech -

    @br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Does face-id stop working if the black plastic separates from the flex(The orange and red dot)?

    tharshan91 -

    If the black plastic piece with the flood illuminator and the proximity sensor is separated from the flex cable, then Face ID will definitely not work. Be very careful not to damage any of the parts in the front sensor assembly.

    Adam O'Camb -

    There is some sort of a tape in front of the flood illuminator which is not present on the replacement screen! Is that gonna cause a problem too?

    BTW, it’s so difficult to position the front camera frame without glue. I guess it takes a few attempts of trial and error!

    shoeib -

    It might not cause any major problems, but there’s a chance that it could effect FaceID functionality. If possible, transfer the tape from the old screen to the new one.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I find it better, regardless of if your new screen comes with the transparent front camera frame, to remove the front sensor assembly from the old screen with the frame, and lifting up the whole assembly using the frame. That way you do not need to apply heat directly to the fragile assembly, but apply it to the other side, the front of the screen at the top, instead, to soften the frame adhesive. The frame is then usually easy to pry loose using a narrow spudger, and comes off cleanly. After that it is much easier to remove the sensors and microphone from the frame, no heat needed usually. And if your new screen doesn’t come with the frame, just plonk the whole frame/sensor assembly down in the right place, and boom, Bob’s your uncle.

    Lars -

    Hello I have an iPhone X i Bought it in 2019 with Face ID not working ( not available try later ) I think the screen was changed with another original , tru tone Off , Als off no auto brightness (and the PROXIMITY SENSOR too ! ) no black screen in calls, i would like to ask u if the earpiece speaker flex was changed with another one (all components ) not the original , did proximity sensor still work ?? Because I don’t know is the original flex of my iphone or not ? I found some scratches in the flex it appears to have small cut so I don’t know the PROXIMITY SENSOR not working because there are a small cut in the flex or because the flex is not the same ?? And if the flex is not the original it can disable (proximity sensor)too not only flood and als ?? Thank you

    Ach -

    Yes it should still work. If you change the assembly to one that isn’t original to that iPhone X everything except the FaceID should still work - I have done so several times for clients. So the reason for yours not working is probably the same small scratches and cuts you have seen. The cable is a bit fragile and some of the copper leads running through it are extremely thin.

    Lars -

    To keep True Tone function on the replacement screen you’ll need a chip data programmer EEPROM to copay data from the old screen onto the new one. There a device called JC-V1 which should do the trick.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    Screen glitching slightly after changing the screen. Any suggestion to what it can be?

    Tim Morell -

    Tim. I had a glitchy screen as well. It would force touch out of nowhere, and “ghost touch” every now and then. Eventually, the top half of the screen stopped responding. Reach out to customer service ASAP. You may have a defective screen.

    Alex Hurtado -

    My front ear speaker not working . The mic it’s working . Apple said you have to replace all the screen to fix the ear speaker because it’s connected with one cable all together. If I buy the speaker and change it myself it will work after or I’m getting into trouble?

    josh -

    I have the same problem. I have the same problem. how did you solve?

    xX_Sn4k3x_Xx - Official -

    Be sure to remove the blue protective film from the BACK of a replacement screen.

    Jim Breef -

    Thank you so much for this. It does not look at all like it needs to be removed.

    Pol Llovet -

    Thank you, Jim, came here just to look for that advice!

    seth hollub -

    can this piece assembly cause for the back camera and flashlight not work? All I did was change the screen and transfer this earpiece and it says warning sign that the flashlight needs to cool down and back camera not working

    Dulce Vidal -

    disregard my last post, problem solved on my end customer had a bad back camera due to bad fall and so i replaced it and now the back camera and flashlight works. :)

    Dulce Vidal -

    Hello I replaced today the second time iphone x display. The first time after a while the front camera stopped working. Today mounted the second time the display and the front camera works, while the rear one does not work. What can I do? Thanks

    Mimmo Cordola -

    if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/microphone unrecoverable at all?

    green_g -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

If you’ve still got repair trouble and find yourself thinking about replacing your device, check out these iPhone X deals from Backmarket—they’ve got a great selection of used and refurbished devices with a fantastic warranty.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406727 Reputation

95 comments

Great Guide, professional and honest to proper procedures, good work Jeff Suovanen.

Alec -

does a new display not come with faceid sensor? so you have to remove this and instal it again with the new glass?

Scott Miller -

yeah, also face id will not work if you don’t replace the flex. Just be careful

jump1n -

FaceID is diabled if the hardware detects a new FaceID module. Using the original parts avoids this issue so that the FaceID feature is’t disabled. This could prevent a FaceID module from being replaced with a doctored or unlicensed part which may fail to provide the same level of security than the Apple supplied part.

Sandman619 -

Sorry, if I replace my iPhone X Lcd, will the Face ID stop working?

Valentine Ebuka -

I have a jailbroken iPhone x and i have to replace my screen in an authorized apple service.

Is necessary after replacement to restore? Or i can stay in 11.3.1 ios which i need to be so i can jailbrake?

jdais2003 -

Hey guys,

I have just completed my third iPhone X screen replacement, but now the taptic engine no longer functions and the phone no longer detects wifi ssid’s.

Does anyone have any advice?

Alex Stewart -

Akex even though you were not working in the area of the Taptic Engine, it sounds like something has happened down there because the wifi long antenna flex cable is attached to the frame at the bottom of the phone that is secured with seven screws. That frame and wifi aerial cable glued to the underside runs right next to the Taptic Engine . The frame also carries three EMC Grounding Pads. Its shown in Step 23 of the iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement Guide but they dont mentions what the cable is. iFixit dont carry it as a spare part either.

Sean Wren -

So is the iPhone XS’s cracked screen replacement different from the iPhone X’s?

lucas mariani -

@lucasmar The procedure for the XS screen replacement is very nearly identical—you can find the guide for it right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

Does anyone of you know that when you replace iphone x display, you need to transfer codes from the old cracked display to work fine?

amar762 -

Yes, it is needed for TrueTone to work perfect. I guess Apple fixed it on newer updates, but i’m pretty sure there’s a tool to trasnfer the “serial number” of the old screen into your old one. I may get one for the shop soon!

Rafael B -

The codes are not transferred. Certain components are have an ID number similar to a MAC address. The components have unique IDs & are registered with the hardware at time of manufacture, When replacing some components, like an LCD display, the unique ID components are transferred from the old part, the LCD display, to the new part, This maintains the functionality of those components, Replacement components need software only available to authorized Apple repair centers to add the new component IDs to the unit. In features like FaceID, this increases the security of iPhones by making it much more difficult to exchange components used by FaceID with components which have been hacked to make it easier to corrupt the iPhone security or for less reputable sources to sell cheaper fake components,

Sandman619 -

Is it possible to separate the digitizer and OLED flex cables from the screen and just replace them?

A_Bortz -

Possible, sure. Practical, no. You’d need an expensive microsoldering rig and a fair bit of practice to pull it off, plus a donor screen to get the cables from. From a DIY perspective, it’s far faster and cheaper to simply replace the entire display.

Jeff Suovanen -

if you are replacing the iphone x screen with a screen from a different iphone X is everything the same

Luke Squire -

No, you need to transfer the earpiece speaker/ sensor flex cable in order for Face ID to work. If you break/ rip or forget to transfer it the display should still work fine… BUT…. no Face ID :(

Rafael B -

After replacing the display correctly, will the face id work?

Gavino Peluso -

Absolutely. If you did everything without mistakes you’re expecting the screen and all other functions to keep working.

Don’t forget to transfer the old earpiece speaker/ sensor flex cable from your broken screen so you can still use Face ID. That cable is paired by Apple to the logic board.

Rafael B -

Great work on the instructions on removing the lcd from my Iphone X. I ended up dropping it from my lap when I got out of the car and place a hairline crack but the screen still completely worked. I ended up purchasing a replacement oled and a glass to replace the cracked screen on a later time. All the info provided here is always right on point. I just want to let you know us techs appreciate a solid source of reliable detailed information with pictures as well. Thanks again and keep up the great work

john bell -

I just finished this repair.

My new screen is showing incorrect battery information.

1. Not showing charging when plugged in.

2. Showing 1% charge. Charge was 30% when I started.

Any help would be fantastic. Thank you.

David

David Ewen -

Battery needs to be recalibrated once the replacement is done, the wrong battery percentage is normal, but if is not charging should be also something else, have you disconnected the battery connector before any other operation?

Gabriel Vendrame -

i dont know what happened but im not getting poor WiFi and Bluetooth and cellular reception is there any thing wrong with the fame that comes with the new display replacement?

Mani Reddy -

Exceptionally detailed and clear guide.

I tried to clean off display adhesive right away upon opening. Found it’s much easier once the 4 connectors are detached and the display screen separated from the rest of the phone. As for the battery, OLED and digitizer cable connectors, a fingernail works best for me to catch the edges without harming the black silicone seal around each of the connectors. The spudger is a bit less precise and without the same tactile finesse.

Thanks, Jeff Suovanen.

Daryl Grove -

Pregunta: si reemplazo este repuesto por uno nuevo, sigue funcionando el Face ID? O deja de funcionar? Saludos

k-amilo -

You must transfer the original sensor onto the new screen.

Debe transferir el sensor original a la nueva pantalla.

Arthur Shi -

have they come out with a true tone fix for the IPhone X with a replacement screen yet? Have one with a cracked screen and was wanting to replace it, but not loose truetone feature. Thanks

Robert Briggs -

True Tone can be restored with a screen programmer, although the programmer itself costs ~$50 or more—so it’s more economical if you’re doing more than one screen repair. We’ll have a guide with instructions for using the programmer sometime in the next month or so. If that’s something you’re interested in, keep your old screen—you’ll need to use the programmer to clone some data from the old screen to the new one.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Everyone

Where can I get the apple genuine iPhone X screen replacement please advise thank you?

Remy -

Used this guide and perfectly replaced my first screen.. Thank a million

Louis -

Hi Jeff Suovanen,

Is there already a guide or a release date for the programmer you mentioned on previous comments? I would love to recover True Tone on my iPhone X :(

“True Tone can be restored with a screen programmer, although the programmer itself costs ~$50 or more—so it’s more economical if you’re doing more than one screen repair. We’ll have a guide with instructions for using the programmer sometime in the next month or so. If that’s something you’re interested in, keep your old screen—you’ll need to use the programmer to clone some data from the old screen to the new one.”

Thanks!

Hugo Verastegui -

Guten Tag, habe den goldenen Endungskontakt verloren. Nach dem Umbau, funktioniert mein Face ID nicht mehr. Gibt es Möglichkeiten den Endungskontakt zu kaufen. Habe im Internet nichts gefunden.

k.karaguelle -

salve, una domanda

perché dopo smontaggio e sostituzione dello schermo il riconoscimento facciale non funziona più?

Riccardo Mazzoni -

Perché il face id come il touch id è associato alla scheda madre, ora se ha portato tutte le componenti dallo schermo rotto a quello nuovo dovrebbe funzionare mentre se ha acquistato uno schermo pre assemblato chiaramente non funzionerà mai.

Se invece rientra nel primo caso e ancora non funziona i connettori potrebbero non essere connessi correttamente o uno dei componenti del face id danneggiati (la cosa più probabile sono i flex cable che si rompono con niente durante la sostituzione)

Gabriel Vendrame -

A certificated Shop told me that the displays have to be coded that the True Tone works, I see they use a special software, and then the True Tone works. Have someone Informationen about the software they used to code the display. The touch reaction after the coding work also exactly like the original. I need to know more about their calibration software.

Saman Razavi -

Fantastic! My battery swelled up and ruined my screen. Purchased a screen kit and battery and the repair went perfect. I originally was going to buy a screen and battery from amazon, but this kit was first class. The tools are very nice too. So in the end I’m glad I spent an extra $80 and got quality parts, great instruction, and nice tools. Best part is of course is my phone is aces again!

Ryan Roraback -

Does the replacement screen come with a new display module or is that a separate part??

Erik kurka -

As 1 part, no worries

Uri -

Beautiful. Amazed at myself and proud. I was also referring to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22_bONU0... and did it in 3 and a half hours today. Thank you!

Uri -

Does this repair make any conflict with True Tone setting? I’ve heard that if I don’t connect the replacement screen to certain apple machine the True Tone setting disappears or is no longer adjustable.

Joon Han -

That is correct. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Arthur Shi -

Does anyone know if after replacement the iPhone stays waterproof?

mitrofanid4 -

Awesome tutorial Mate!

Aji Kurniawan -

Hello guys

I just replaced the screen for my Iphone X. I got the display from https://www.buypaz.com/en/original-apple...

But after replacing the screen and turning it on only the back light is functioning. I tried reusing the old display and it worked just fine. Is there any suggestions to why this one is not working or is my new screen just a bust ?

Jeremy -

Because of my phone screen having the top half frozen, I cannot shut down my phone. Do I just wait for it to die completely? Before install?

dmstrohm -

You can wait for it to die completely! If you don’t want to though, as long as the battery is at a low percentage and you disconnect it as soon as you open the phone (as this guide instructs), you should be okay. Best of luck to you!

Taylor Dixon -

Jerk move not including extra screws in the kit (not even one) and reassembly instruction. Thank goodness for https://youtu.be/22_bONU08dc

Chad -

This guide was thorough and pointed out all of the delicate spots. The only problems I had were due to my eyesight! Really great to be able to handle this myself, especially now when it’s not so easy to walk into a store.

Thanks!

ungodly -

This was my first time fixing any part of a phone. Pretty easy to follow. I had no major issues. Nice to see first hand what’s inside a phone. Thank you guys!

Anthony Montano -

Do we need to reprogram the display before using it??

There are no instructions on how to put it

Pranit Sonigra -

Hi Pranit,

You do not need to reprogram the display to have it work, but True Tone is disabled after the repair.

Arthur Shi -

Just completed the disassembly and the replacement of the screen up to Step 13 in reverse order (starting from the bottom of the guide). I am now attempting to power up the device, but it won’t come on. Any idea what I may have done wrong?

Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma -

Update: plugging the phone to my USB port in order to perform DFU reset caused it to reboot and start up. So, kudos to the author and editors of the guide!

Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma -

Great guide!! repaired phone and good to go

Amy L Martinez -

Very detailed guide and easy to follow. I successfully replaced my screen after my iphonex got wet with a green screen. Thanks Jeff Suovanen and others who contributed to this guide!

Xiaofeng Guo -

Hello, what about the glue? Where can i find a new glue to apply after replacement?

Francesco -

Display adhesive from iFixit

VauWeh -

love you all guys!! best guide ever

antoniomarse -

Super minutieuse comme réparation, mais avec de la patience et de l’organisation c’est tout bon. Tout fonctionne du premier coup!

Merci encore pour le tutoriel!

David Mariaux -

So I’ll start with something nice I guess: the guide, like all ifixit guides, is very good and thorough.

However, I just completed this repair (twice…), and I’m not a happy camper. The first screen they sent me had really weird graphical glitching/tearing. The second replacement screen has a bright off-color “hot spot” right in the middle. The digitizer is pretty bad…it barely registers a “Reachability” swipe, and it frequently registers phantom touches and completely misses swipes/touches. The cherry on top is that it also drains my battery noticeably more quickly.

I’m not satisfied with this replacement. It’s non-trivial to change the screen and there’s no way for you to properly test it prior to taking your phone apart, so it’s a REALLY bad customer experience to receive a screen that never should have passed QA. I don’t know if all of these cheaper screens fail so miserably at correctly registering touches or if I’m just the unluckiest person in the world but I wouldn’t take my chances.

David Davis -

I used this guide to simply cleaning out my speakers and jt worked fine. But I’m now having a display issue where right side of my screen is white/pink lines. Any clues on why this happening? I’ve tried plugging in the display multiple times and still the same results.

otherdarwinjr -

Thank you for a well explained well written guide. It made my screen replacement a very happy experience.

Michael Hart -

I followed this guideline to fix my iPhone X with LCD screen. Worked for several weeks, but completely died one day after charging. Sometimes there is also mistake touching and wrong displayed pictured like false color. Disappointing.

Chen Chen -

Hi Chen Chen,

If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

Arthur Shi -

What adhesive do you recommend for reattaching the earpiece speaker on to the replacement display?

mcvtech -

Completed the replacement of the screen on an iPhone X. First, I HATE y000 screws! I think this is Apple’s way of trying to dissuade users from attempting a repair no matter how adept they are at repairing electronic equipment. Pentalobe is fine, I can work with them. Second, big fail (IMHO) on no warning about removing the protective film on the BACK of the screen. It’s not obvious that the film needs to be removed. As this was the first time repairing an iPhone X I did not pick up on removing the film until I could not get the touch function to work. Had to disassemble the screen to remove the film once I realized it needed to come off. A caveat sticker on the packing material would be a nice touch. As the repair was a success I am pleased. The instructions were very good especially the link to the adhesive installation. Could use a note of caution when cleaning around the bottom ground contacts. The fingers appear to be foil and are easily damaged.

Jim Breef -

Sorry for the trouble there. Removing the film is mentioned in the conclusion: “Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.” In other words, the new part should look just like the replacement part before you continue. So I guess the question is, were these instructions unclear (in which case, maybe we should rephrase)—or, did you not notice them at all? (In which case, maybe we should make them more prominent.) Good job working through it though. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello Jeff,

My iphone X screen is blue and have a black spot on the left, progressively becoming big since the phone felt down.

What should I do please?

Thanks for the help.

Jacky

Jacky MO -

Now the screen is completely black…

Jacky MO -

Thanks admin share this information

mdsajib ahmod -

Sehr gut und ausführlich erklärt

richard Saller -

its perfect!

hussain alatya -

I found this a great help when replacing my iphone screen, but now my screen is not responding to the touch function, it was fine when I tested it, then when I charged the battery it stopped working. The instructions are great though and I’ll use them again when I get another new screen and hope this one works!

julietmeb -

For anyone saying that true tone will not work after a screen replacement, there is a way. You just need an iPhone screen reprogrammer. There’s one online called the JC PRO1000S which is used to transfer the phones serial number onto the new display so true tone will work again. If you can’t afford the JC PRO100S, just get the JC V1 which can be found here: https://www.jcprogrammer.com/jc-v1-iphon...

This is the JC PRO1000S https://www.jcprogrammer.com/jc-operatio...

You’ll need to download a program after getting the product, but after that you should be good to go.

For anyone going to question how I know this, I watch a lot of Hugh Jefferys videos.

Keep in mind this will only work with the iPhone 7 and later.

John Vinovrski -

im using the JC-V1 and JCID-V1S, it only works to move the (true tone) info if the new screen have a working EEPROM chip.

tobiasagren -

I’m planning to do a display replacement for iPhone X, but do I need to transfer/programming anything to new display to be sure that display, FaceID and etc. to works?

ibo -

If you want true tone to work on the new screen you have to move the serial/software with a programmer tool to the new screen, for face id to work on new screen you just have to move the thingy at the top of the screen, it have a flex cabel that connects to the motherboard, if unclear there´s beter comments further up.

tobiasagren -

hi, I replaced the screen, I followed the guide to the letters and I passed the sensor of the face id with the upper speaker from the old screen to the new one, but once everything is mounted, the face id does not work and neither does the speaker. but if I take them off the screen and connect them without the screen, the face id works and so does the speaker. Why?

xX_Sn4k3x_Xx - Official -

Will tap-to-wake still work with the replacement display even if I don’t have a NAND reprogrammer?

Noah Lach -

doyou sell something to glue bacck again the display to the phone?

Alvaro Arce -

Yes! Use this display adhesive for the phone.

Arthur Shi -

Thank you iFixit! Love your guides and your products.

Just fixed my iPhone X screen for the first time using your replacement screen and kit.

Additionally, I have used your guides and products to fix multiple iPhone 6 screens and replace the battery. You help me keep my phone in working order for 4-5 years

William Veith -

I bought the screen and tool kit set, followed these instructions to the letter, and successfully breathed new life into my son’s iPhone X. The only thing I would add to this is that you should use blue thread lock to keep these tiny screws from backing out. Even with it, I found some of the screws very loose when I removed them, which may be because the phone gets hot, but it doesn’t hurt. The trickiest part was replacing the waterproof display adhesive, but with the way the template backings were set up, it made it very easy to get it lined up and properly placed. The trick is to go slow. Thanks, iFixit! Another quality product!

aywang67 -

Only comment would to add a re-assembly. Give new people some confidence following along even though its just the opposite to put together again. Really nice write up and video guide though!

Steven Preedy -

Thank you, it was a great guide with lots of info !

Avi Tanani -

Merci, j'ai pu changer l'écran de mon X pour un peu moins de 50€ en commandant la pièce sur AliExpress. Je suis très content !

Faabio -

followed the instructions, now receiving a 4013 error. I was told I might need to swap the chip in my old display to the new display. How do I do this.

Tanya Wright -

Great step by step articel thanks. I have just followed and replaced cracked screen on iphone X.

All went as per the diagrams and phone works fine except the front facing (selfie) camera no longer works. Weirdly the rear camera is fine but selecting the selfie camera shows a blury version of the rear camera picture! Any ideas what could cause that. It was definately working before the screen replacement but I have triple checked and no cables are damaged and all seated properly. What would cause the front camera to play up?

Scuba Al -

Nice :v

huuhaukimngan -

Article is great, but i can't find a proper screen replacement for mi Iphone X (its a A1865), i bought two, and both are way thicker and have a metal frame attached to them, but the original screen i'm taking out doesn't have it, neither it has the Speaker and FaceID sensors attached to it, they are in the phone side. Any advice on how to proceed?

Fede Hurley -

What types of screens do iphone x have? I see a lot of different varieties here : https://teamcare.vn/thay-man-hinh-iphone...

- iPhone X GX Screen

- iPhone X Zy Screen

LupinVN -

Thank you very much for this excellent explanation

Najm Alhusseini -

I lost the golden thingy in step 22, what funktion(s) will be lost, when I reassamble the phone without it?

joel hallo -

i follwed all the instructions very well…but my screen is just black …what could be the problem?

Dalitso Garth -

Hi Dalitso Garth! Potentially, the issue could be caused by an incorrectly seated cable like the display and/or battery cable or a faulty replacement part. I'd recommend following our troubleshooting checklist: Troubleshooting Problems After a Repair. There is also a specific troubleshooting page for the iPhone X: iPhone X Won't Turn On.

Manuel Haeussermann -