iPhone XS Max Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 30

iPhone XS Max Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to remove or transfer the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly in your iPhone XS Max. This assembly includes the earpiece speaker, microphone, ambient light sensor, flood illuminator, and proximity sensor.

This assembly is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement.

The flood illuminator forms part of the biometric Face ID security feature, and Face ID functions will fail if the original component is damaged or incorrectly installed. Replacing it with a new part will also cause Face ID to fail, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Tools

Parts

iPhone XS Max Earpiece Speaker and Sensor Assembly

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Step 2

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

besteht da die Gefahr das sich das Displayglas vom lcd löst?

roter spieler -

Besteht da die Gefahr das sich der Kleber vom Displayglas löst?

roter spieler -

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 6

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

I need help. I inserted the pick under the screen, but above the touch screen. When I lifted it, all I see is the silver touch screen instead of the interior of the iPhone. How do I to opening the screen the right way from here?

Joe Blaze -

Step 7

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 8

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 9

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 10

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Step 11

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 12

Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw
One 3.7 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Step 13

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 14

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 15

Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket:
Two 1.5 mm screws
One 1.1 mm screw

I am replacing the screen for the 2nd time - the first repair was done by someone else, and the first 2 screws are 1.5mm and the last screw is 1.1mm… If I put the screw back in am I risking Long Screw Damage?

Sarah Ybarra - 22/03/20

I think that the outside screw (red one, one the right) is actually 1.5 mm or something longer than 1.1. Looked that way to me.

Paul Key - 12/05/20

From the top, the screws are: 2 x 1,5mm + 1 x 1,1mm

serdev94 - 25/09/20

I can confirm the above comments on the screw length. Pls correct it in the description!

k_neuper -

Thanks for all your comments! I'll amend this step.

Arthur Shi -

Hi, I just changed the screen on my XS Max and for this bracket I used 2 x 1.1 mm and 1 x 1.5 mm.

Starting from left to right:

- left 1.1 mm (I tried with 1.5 mm like in the above picture but I felt that it didn't wanted to go deeper so I didn't forced and I tried it in the middle and it fit perfectly)

- middle 1.5 mm

- right 1.1 mm

For the two brackets I had 7 screws, I aligned them on the desk by length and I had 2 x 1.5 mm, 4 x 1.1 mm and 1 x 3.7 mm.

Good luck and I hope it will help someone!

Adrian Slabu -

Step 16

Remove the bracket.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 18

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 19

Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Mine still won’t respond even after reseating any ideas? Ground issue?

Jasom -

Step 20

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

What if that cable brakes how do u fix that?

Kourtney Williams -

Step 21

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

No olviden que para que pase el Face Id tienen q cambiar el flex que va encima de la camara delantera con mucho cuidado ya q si le ponen otro flex no funcionara.

jeferson - 31/10/18

Step 22

Remove the three Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
One 1.4 mm screw
Two 1.5 mm screws

Step 23

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

If you are using a refurbished display, check for dirt in the earpiece speaker cutout.

If you have poor quality or low sound after changing the display, use a cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol to clean the earpiece cutout.

John Gildert - 07/06/20

Step 24

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Step 25

Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

Step 26

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Step 27

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.
The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

This was the most difficult part for me so i erred on the side of caution. I reheated the display in the oven at 85 degrees celsius. Like in the third picture in the next step, i got a razor into the slot below, to get the diffuser a little loose before wiggling the sensor out. I didn't understand the wiggling until i simply rocked it like a boat would side to side like to the top of the display to the bottom on the display, and voila, all came out easy and in one piece with the diffuser still attached.

Nachman Laufman -

Step 28

If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

I have accidentally damaged flood illuminator will it affect the face id also or if I just replace the Earpiece Speaker and Sensor Assembly it will get fixed.

Devashish Nayak - 29/05/20

Step 29

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Do you have to remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly. If you are taking a screen from another Xs max with it already attached?

atkinson_98 - 30/07/20

The front sensor assembly is part of Face ID, so you must transfer the original assembly to the replacement screen in order to maintain Face ID functionality.

Arthur Shi - 01/08/20

In order to keep the original assembly, do you have to solder?

qwerty77x - 21/11/20

No, you just take the whole unit. Warm it up and remove the glued sensors like described. Handle it carefully, the speaker cable is quite thin. If damaged, you might loose your face-ID functionality.

rob_repair -

Does the screen need a reprogamation onto the new screen?

Diogo Helms -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406754 Reputation

10 comments

这些照片是否有版权限制呢，我是否可以用在公司培训等非盈利的位置呢？

Eden - 14/08/19

Hi Eden,

You can find our policy here:

您可以在此处找到我们的政策：Link

Arthur Shi - 14/08/19

is the process the same for iPhone XS but not MAX version

mauro - 20/09/19

Similar but not identical. You can find instructions for the standard XS model over here.

Jeff Suovanen - 01/10/19

I’m looking for a replacement earpiece speaker, with the ribbon cable that has all the sensors already on it. Seems that all the sensors aren’t removable, specifically the flood illuminator. Any advice? Thanks

Matt Sordill - 12/10/19

Rewa and HCQS uploaded some videos on YouTube. I’m also looking for the whole assembly and wanted to transplant the flood illuminator. It can be done with some soldering. You need microscope, solder gun, and PCB cleaner paste. The replacement must have the flood illuminator. It can be done, but probably you will end up loosing Face ID. It is hard.

Kevin Neuman - 26/10/19

I replaced earpiece speaker assembly.

And the new part works well.

But Face ID is not working.

I can not activate Face ID.

What do i do?

Kyoungmin Jang - 27/01/20

Unfortunately, the original front sensor assembly is paired to the phone. Replacing the part will render Face ID inoperable.

Arthur Shi - 08/05/20

So basically, if you do an “at-home”, normal, speaker repair to the ear speaker, you are going to lose FaceID capabilities, period?

Steven Hoobler - 07/05/20

Correct. The entire front sensor assembly is replaced together. You may be able to replace the earpiece speaker alone, but it would require very advanced soldering.

Arthur Shi - 08/05/20