Nintendo Switch Lite Screen Replacement

Geschrieben von: Spencer Day

Kommentare: 45

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Use this guide to replace the screen on your Nintendo Switch Lite. The screen consists of the LCD and digitizer. If you are only replacing the LCD, follow this guide. If you are only replacing the digitizer, follow this guide.

Note: Replacement adhesive is required to complete this guide.

Note: Although removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, it makes this repair much easier.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Nintendo Switch Lite Screen Assembly

Schritt 1

Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?

Almost A Mammal -

A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.

Tommy Morrill -

What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way

Luca Capito -

Schritt 2

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

Schritt 3

Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Schritt 4

Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Schritt 5

Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Schritt 6

Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Schritt 7

Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Schritt 8

Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
Remove the back panel.

Schritt 9

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 3.1 mm screws
One 4.5 mm screw

There are four screws instead of three mentioned

Khurram Chaudry -

it doesnt mention 3 anywhere, and it labels all four

Ezi -

With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

Nate -

Schritt 10

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

You may need to replace the thermal paste on the heat sink.

ahoz28 -

Schritt 11

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

Schritt 12

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on

User Service -

The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?

Jose Cruz R Rangel Cordero -

We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off

Jimmy “Ghost” Trost -

Schritt 13

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.

Craig Osman - 30/01/21

Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-

Justin Kerr - 14/04/21

I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?

Jannalyzer -

You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.

Adam O'Camb -

I pulled straight up from the south side on under 2 or three wires and held down the device as I pulled and the gray connector disconnected from the black connector on the Switch. Just be careful at this part.

Jon -

With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

Nate -

Schritt 14

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

When reassembling, the foam may fold down between the fan and heatsink, blocking airflow. Gently lift the foam back up on top of the fan. The adhesive film should hold the foam together.

Kean Stump - 25/12/20

Is removing the heat sink absolutely necessary?

Clark Aulden - 15/04/21

It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.

Craig Lloyd - 16/04/21

Not really…….. I never remove it. It slides out quite easily once disconnected.

Alan Sears -

What do you do if these screws are stripped? They strip easily

Whatever -

Schritt 15

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Schritt 16

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

16.5 remove cartridge / headphones jack……….

Calvin Martin -

I've read that there are different ways to apply thermal paste, which should I use?

Kai B -

My kit did not come with thermal paste..

Bryan Donovan -

Schritt 17

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.

Schritt 18

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Schritt 19

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.
Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Schritt 20

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

I think a whole step to remove the game card reader and speaker jack was skipped here…

ConfusedAzn Random -

yes, just found that sadly these comments do not show unless we click on the , which is unhelpful

Micheal speed -

also, you need to remove the left trigger button

Micheal speed -

Schritt 21

Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Schritt 22

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.

Schritt 23

Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Schritt 24

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

Schritt 25

Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

There’s a step missing after this to remove the screws that hold the orange game cartridge slot. Those 7 screws have to be undone and the ribbon unclipped first before moving on to the next step.

Heather Thrasher -

Schritt 26

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.

skipped a step or two about removing the golden piece in the photo above, and the other little board

Eddy Whitaker -

If I broke the clasp on the ZIF connector can I elec tape it down?

kevin miller -

Schritt 27

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Schritt 28

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

Can I electrical tape this down if I broke the clasp?

kevin miller -

Schritt 29

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Schritt 30

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.

Schritt 31

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Schritt 32

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
Three 3.1 mm screws
Three 4.5 mm screws

how to get the c port off

Dustin Cronk -

When re-assembling, be sure the fan cable (step 25) is completely pulled through prior to tightening the screw that’s right next to it.

John Glaeser -

Schritt 33

Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.
Remove the motherboard assembly.

Schritt 34

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Schritt 35

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Where are parts for the right joystick?

John - 28/02/21

Schritt 36

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

pulled from the connector, not the wires, and ended up ripping them off the connector anyways since it encountered tension from the other end (the gray chamber on the left)

consider doing step 15 before pulling the wire, just in case.

Phillipe Legenda - 01/02/21

Why even disconnect this cable. Not worth the risk leave it connected to daughter board.

Michael McNally -

while doing this I ripped the pad on the circuit board off. Should i risk trying to repair it or should i just try to go without the speaker???

sarah.carney203 -

I also accidentally ripped off the connector, disabling the left speaker. However, that will not break any functionality of the switch. The right speaker works just fine on its own (just remember to turn the audio to mono in system settings) and I was successfully able to replace the joystick. Although the audio quality is a little bit depleted, you barely notice it if you turn up the volume a little, and I think being able to actually MOVE FORWARD in my games is a better plus than having louder, stereo, audio.

Jonathan Maye -

Went to pull the speaker connector and it pulled right off the motherboard. Would not come loose.

putnamjerome4 -

I'm gonna echo what others said here and suggest that you skip this step. After you complete Step 15, you can just move the speakers enough with your fingers to complete Step 26, which involves a screw half underneath it.

Regarding the ribbon cable in Step 17 & Step 18, you can honestly use your fingers if they're small enough. The ribbon cable is wide enough for you to press down on it a little and slide it out bit by bit.

Overall, this makes the disassembly and eventual reassembly process easier and lets you avoid running the risk of damaging or completely tearing out the wires, like I almost did.

ThatDerpGuy -

Schritt 37

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Schritt 38

Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.
Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Pulling the lower screw on the speaker assembly gave me a little more wiggle room to get it out without damaging the flat cable.

Spacer - 18/02/21

Schritt 39

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

Schritt 40

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Schritt 41

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Schritt 42

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Schritt 43

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Schritt 44

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.

Schritt 45

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

The connector for my left joystick broke. Is there a way to fix it?

Christopher Shackelford - 11/05/21

How badly did it broke?

Daniele Carminati - 11/05/21

Schritt 46

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Schritt 47

Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Schritt 48

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Two 4.5 mm screws
Two 6 mm screws

The two 4.5 mm screws were very difficult to remove here and ended up getting stripped. I CANNOT remove them, help!

Sara Rouse- Barker -

Schritt 49

Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Stop here if repairing Switch Lite for joycon drift. After removing daughter card you can see the bottom of the joystick. This thin metal actually bends during use causing bad connection of joystick. If you cut out a business card the same size as the joycon and put it on the bottom of the joystick it gives the metal enough backing to fix the issue. I used two layers with just a small bit of glue stick to adhere it. Put it all back together and you will find your issue is fixed.

Michael McNally -

Schritt 50

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Schritt 51

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.
Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Schritt 52

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH000 driver to remove the four screws securing the midframe assembly:
Three 2.5 mm screws
One 6 mm screw

Schritt 53

Use a spudger to pry the midframe assembly up until you can grip it with your fingers.
Grip the midframe assembly and pull up to remove it.

Schritt 54

Remove any remaining buttons that are loose in the frame.

Schritt 55

Flip the frame over so the screen is facing up.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the frame.

Schritt 56

Lightly bend the left side of the frame away from the screen to create a gap in the bottom left corner.
If you're having difficulty creating a gap, reapply a heated iOpener for two minutes and try again.
Insert an opening pick in the gap.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Schritt 57

Throughout this repair, don't insert your pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge.
Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Schritt 58

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 59

Rotate the opening pick around the top left corner.

Schritt 60

Slide the opening pick along the top edge.
Leave the opening pick inserted in the top right corner.

Schritt 61

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 62

Rotate the opening pick around the top right corner.

Schritt 63

Slide the opening pick along the right edge.
Leave the opening pick inserted in the bottom right corner.

Schritt 64

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 65

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner.

Schritt 66

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge.

Schritt 67

Grip the frame and push up on the underside of the screen's left edge to separate the adhesive securing it.

Schritt 68

The digitizer cables prevent the screen from being lifted straight up from the frame.
Lift the left side of the screen to a 45-degree angle and remove it.
If the screen is still stuck to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter and try again.
During reassembly, follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive.

Abschluss

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

Tinte & Feder

Spencer Day

Mitglied seit: 14/09/22

17445 Reputation

Nintendo Switch Lite Screen Replacement

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

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