iPhone 6 Akku tauschen

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

I have to use the P2 right?

The best advice I can give is not to perform this operation over carpet.

I'm an amateur, but I was able to replace the parts almost perfectly while looking at this explanation, thank you very much.

was fairly easy more nerves than anything, one thing one should have on hand is alcohol just in case its needed. also if one doesn’t get the entire tape strips out, use the alcohol like suggested and lift the battery up. Then can grab the remaining tape strips with tweezers and pull it out. Easy to put back together just make sure the connectors are in. The screws are tiny so take your time. I plugged it in and it started charging and it worked. Great to have my 6 back for a trip as I wanted to use it for the camera, also my game phone so nice to have a battery that lasts. Yes having a flat place to put the parts and put them in separate area so they don’t get mixed up. It took about a hour with hunting for a spare bottle of alcohol.

The first step should always to be to backup your phone as there is always a slim chance that even a simple battery replacement may render the phone inoperable and data on it lost.

You dont need to remove sim card while battery replacement

Did mine today, with iFixit battery and iFixit tool kit. Did not need suction cup, to open case, as it had partially sprung open on left, as a result of a badly swollen battery. Supported base and screen with a bookend and rubber bands. This kept these parts at a 90 degree angle, so that screen did not need to be removed. IFixit screwdriver tips were perfect fit. Somewhat difficult to remove battery adhesive strips, but slow and steady got it done, after mild heating with hair dryer. Took about 3 minutes to reposition battery connector…just a wee bit tricky, to position correctly. Was careful to place top of screen in place first, and remainder snapped into place with light pressure, and replaced the 2 pentalobe screws.

Will highly recommend iFixit for such a repair. Repair kit and battery, are first rate. I give this an 11, out of 10.?

How do you know Tom>

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

dont have a panel so idk know cant buy one help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Suction cup with blue handle is so stiff it would not hold a suction. I ended up putting it in very hot water for about 5 minutes before I was ready to use it, that did the trick.

The MORE iFixit plastic tools you have available for this step the merrier. It was effortless with two.

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Hola soy de Guatemala Me pueden ayudar a saber si puedo cambiar las partes de un A1589 a un A1549 iPhone 6

Good thing am reading this prior to beginning any disassembly or re assembly. Thanks guys for the great tips

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

I feel like I just pulled off a minor miracle, successfully detaching and reattaching those four connectors. In the past I have also used the lean-against-a-box variant. Now I carefully apply several short pieces of painter’s tape to create a temporary “hinge,” in combo with the lean-against-a-box variant. If the bottom piece could be SUCCESSFULLY SECURED [painter’s tape loops?] to my work surface this should avoid needing to deal with the four connectors. IMPORTANT NOTE: At the end of the day this repair will ALWAYS be about pulling the white stretchy adhesive tape out from under the battery. And again the painter’s tape comes into play. This last battery replacement when I started to pull out the two adhesive strips I also, several times, applied enough tape to combine the strips and form a single grab point. Also, removing the “vibration” block allowed the the pull angle to be insanely shallow. Slowly-but-surely, both strips successfully emerged and battery was totally released.

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

You’ll want to secure each screw as you remove it - if you sneeze they will fly away and you’ll never find them. I recommend having a small bowl or container for each screw you remove and label them for reassembly.

I was worried about getting the screws mixed up, so I used Sharpies to color-code each screw before I removed it (red, orange, or yellow - corresponding to the iFixit illustrations) When I marked the screw, the bracket got some color on it too, so when I was replacing the screw, I was confident that I was putting the right screw into the right position.

I also made a template-board by tracing an outline of the phone in the center of a piece of cardboard, and then gluing pieces of masking tape onto the cardboard, sticky-side up, one piece of tape for each bracket I removed. I drew an outline of the part on the tape, and made a red or orange or yellow dot for each screw that came from the bracket. It made it super-easy to keep track of the disassembly and reassembly. Took a little longer, but I didn't damage the logic board by using the wrong screw, and I was relaxed throughout the repair.

GPS and WiFi now work perfectly!!!

Thank you iFixit and commentators

Funny my one screwdriver fit all the screws with no problem!

@Paul Austin: colouring the screws is a galaxy-brain tier idea, I will definitely be doing this!

Are you just out of luck if you start to strip a screw? The first, 3.2 mm came out easily but the 2.2 mm is a little worse for wear. I’d be grateful for any tips you might have.

Turns out the included PH000 head does work with both screws. They are both the same size gauge; only difference is the length. I had the same kind of trouble as most others trying to unscrew them. But if you carefully apply consistent direct downward pressure as you turn, the screw does disengage and unscrew. It helps to stand up over the work for more leverage. And it aids in keeping the screw driver head in full contact with screw head, so it doesn’t slip and strip the head.

I am surprised by all of the comments about the screwdriver bits being the wrong size - I have done several iPhone repairs now with the tools provided by iFixit, and the screwdrivers work perfectly for me every time.

I bought the Ifixit tool kit on amazon for $70 and i don't see any 3.2 mm or 2.2 mm in the black box. does anyone know what screw i am supposed to use because i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. I opened the bottom screws on the Iphone 6 just fine but for the inside screws i dont see 3.2 or 2.2. can anyone help me? i hope I didnt waste $70 on the wrong thing.

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

So her guys I skipped 13 but when attaching the ribbons( which is the LCD,camera etc ) I got a little smoke while trying to attach the ribbons and now i am not seeing anything but the phone is vibrating and coming on but i cant see anything

What is the reason

Who are you kidding? Plastic tool” is cute, but totally useless for lifting that battery connector off the logic board. But the smaller of the four long-handles Metal tools iFixit sells as a set worked perfectly well.

Reattaching the battery connector was one of the more difficult parts of this repair. Once you place the battery on the rear cover and the adhesive sticks you cannot make any adjustments to position (even though I tried to just place it as lightly as possible at first). I did a dry run attaching the connector and placing the battery before removing the adhesive cover but I did not get it to sit the quite the same after removing the cover. I had to fiddle with the battery connector quite a bit to get it in place.

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

Thanks for your reply

even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

Initially thought I would skip these steps, as many people said to skip steps 13-19, but I tried proceeding without removing the front panel, and my adhesive strips simply would not remove, even with heating….so off the front panel came. Putting it back (connecting the cables back) was definitely a little panic-inducing, but managed to do it without damage - definitely watch some youtube videos!

Most companies standardize the screws on their products, but since Apple does not want you to fix your phone on its own, it has set a trap for you to damage it. I think that this criminal action may be entailing a lawsuit.

I have to use PH000 right?

Xmas day here 2020 and i decided to skip separation of the screen from the base. got the battery out no problem. did remove the vibrator plate and felt that really helped to remove the adhesive strips. just keep the screen nicely propped up and you should have no problems. not seeing any reason at all to remove the cables and screen.

Are there any other alternative i can use to unscrew the 1.7 mm screw?

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Got it all connected properly but front facing camera won’t work. I heard that connector snap into place but it just doesn’t work anymore. I even took it all apart again and redid that connection but nothing. Bummer, but I’m not a selfie person, I only used it when I was holding my dog on my lap. Everything else works fine after the battery re-install so…whatever.

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

what if the batery was not disconnected?

Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

I finally got the cables to reconnect. I actually was being to gentle pushing them down. Line them up gently then firmly press them in place.

i went through all the steps, except i forgot to disconnect my battery, now my phone has lines and i can see horizontal pixels (as in the images are not smooth anymore). when i performed power cycle, the screen is still the same. What can i Do

During the reassembly, the ordering of the ribbons on the iFixit part at the top of the phone were mis-layered. The display data cable connector and the digitizer cable connector (steps 18 and 19 in the guide) were swapped in there ordering. This was fixed by my disassembly of the camera bracket following the guide 'iPhone 6 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement'. This allowed me to fix the layered ordering of the connectors.

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

I Had two repairs on separate phones, and got sloppy on the second one and pressed the middle of this connector with my finger. It bent the right side ever so slightly. I thought I’d read the comments before ordering a new screen and I’m glad I did. I then took a closer look and saw on the right side the two rows of points at the end weren’t running parallel anymore. Using the tweezers from the kit I squeezed the misaligned rows back true and tried one more time to install, focusing on the right (previously damaged) side first to ensure it snapped into place. Voila! All is well.

Excellent instructions, great products, and REALLY HELPFUL COMMENTS! Thanks!

This was the hardest step for me. The iHold helped a lot. Used my fingers for all the connectors. Just make sure the cable that goes to the lowest connector is placed above all before trying to insert any.

I’ll strongly agree that this is the most difficult and time consuming step of reassembly. As Pau has stated it is vital that the cables are layered in the correct order before you begin attempting the connections.

Check back to Step 21. It’s not clear from the photos, but the ribbons can be run under each other. The display connection and the home button connection can become transposed at Step 21.

If in doubt, check the size of the connections and re-order accordingly.

After reassembling I have 3 letters on the virtual keyboard that don’t do anything anymore. It is the B, H and U. Could this be related to this (another) connector. (the screen is also broken but this time I only replaced the battery an it worked before this

Bonsoir je voudrais savoir si c'est possible que l'a ou l'on coche la nape de l'écran tactile peut se de fixé

Et comment faire si c'est le cad

My first attempt resulted in loss of touch response to a vertical column of app icons on the screen. From the Safari app at the bottom to the top of the screen, every app icon in that column was unresponsive to touch. Couldn’t open them. And this was true for every screen, including a corresponding bundle of letters and numbers in the same screen location when trying to use the keyboard. I did a hard reset any number of times without success until I finally realized the pattern: the vertical column of unresponsiveness.

I remembered the caveat about connecting the digitizer cable — don’t press the center, do each side — and figured I must have made a bad connection. So I opened up the case again and went all the way down to the digitizer connection and did it more carefully, as advised. Sure enough, problem solved. Take the precaution.

Replacing the digitizer cable was accomplished by moving the base to line up with the flexible connection then using a finger to press into place feeling that the connection was correct worked, then pressing into place with a click of confirmation. the rest of the cables fell into place afterword.

It would be worth noticing, either at this step or below, the order of the stripes. Reassembling the fron panel requires them in the correct order, and “follow the instructions in reverse order” is not enough if there is not a detail on how the cables are ordered.

I successfully left the screen assembly attached while replacing my battery. I even had my adhesive strips break off and had to spray isopropyl underneath the battery and then grab the strips with tweezers, but I was still ok. I can see why it’s recommended to detach the screen assembly, but if you rubberband it to a stable support and are careful not to jerk the lower case, it’s possible to accomplish the repair while skipping several steps.

Definitely easier to remove the adhesive after using the iOpener to warm up the phone!

My phone did not have the tabs or peel off adhesive. I had the pry, yes pry, the battery out of the phone while heating it. The battery was glued in place and came out shaped like a banana. I’m just glad it did not puncture during the process. On the plus side, I didn’t need to install the new adhesive pad, as it looked like that is what was in there, and they were still sticky. As I think back, this phone was replaced by Verizon under warranty, and they gave me a refurbished phone. I bet it already had a repair battery in it…

CAUTION! As I already had the tools I bought only the battery, not the kit. It was not evident that new adhesive strips are needed. Having only replaced a 4s battery before, even reading this Guide did not alert me that new strips were needed.

I too was able to skip steps 13-19, by securing the display at a 90 degree angle. I used a soup can with a microfiber cloth between the screen and the can. I secured it with a rubber band and worked very carefully. I do recommend heating the back of the phone as it made the adhesive come up with relative ease. You just have to be slow and apply constant pulling pressure, but lightly. I was able to remove the strips without removing the vibrator. I was going to remove the vibrator but the screws were unwilling to come out, so I just proceeded to removing the strips and had no issues. I expected this to be much more of a project than it was but had no problems or issues and it was a breeze. Now just waiting to see if the battery is good, but so far everything is fine. Phone came back on and everything is as it was before. No glitches or issues there either.

If you have patience and can be gentle and follow the instructions, you should be able to skip several steps.

Dear God, I really made a mess of this part, probably the most difficult with the possible exception of putting the data interface plugs back in. But I kept going on a hope and a prayer, having finally to resort to the hairdryer trick in the end and somehow managed to get the blighter out. Not very pro. But everything is now back in place and the iPhone kicked in first time and away she goes. Yeah look at the video a couple of times before starting this…

Unless the video comes with a “magic” Time Travel Component that allows the bogus adhesive strips to be better designed so they had any chance a all of releasing in a reasonable manner, I’ll pass. After the stripes snapped off, again (this is my second 6 battery replacement), leaving the battery 90% adhered to the iPhone, the only thing that got me out of the pickle was plenty of heat (my Thermalon Dry Eye Moist Heat Compress, microwaved 10 times) on the underside of the iPhone. That, and insanely CAREFUL prying with two of the FLAT versions of the four long-handles tools sold as a kit by iFixit, so as to not puncture the battery and create the loathsome flaming mess.

If you replace the iphone 6 battery with out using heat gun, will it spoil the battery?

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

I was able to pull the right strip completely out just from the bottom of the battery. Pull straight out with a low angle (just slightly above the black chip so it doesn't get caught or break) and the adhesive will pull right out. There's no need to go around the sides of the battery unless the adhesive is dry and not flexible. If the adhesive is very flexible, you'll be able to pull it out very easily as long as you take your time and are careful. It also helped that I started with 100% battery and drained down to under 25%, so the iphone was very warm from doing this and that helped make it very easy to pull the adhesive out. I did not need a warming kit, I just used the heat from using the iphone to drain the battery before shutting it down for the repair!

I managed to pull the strips out without using any heat. I pulled maybe 25 degrees from the vertical, carefully avoiding the metallic parts around. However, after starting to pull with an even pressure, and seeing that the strip was stretching without coming out, I found that it helped if I gave small, repeated tugs, rather delicate but abrupt. This way I could actually hear the strip pulling out from under the battery, with a rubbery vibrating sound. It must have taken maybe 100 small tugs for each strips but they came out easily. Also, as the extracted part got too long, I held it with the other hand and grabbed it again further down the exposed portion, to always have a shorter section to pull on.

Pulling straight down towards the bottom of the phone at a small angle worked well for me. I highly recommend taking your time to prevent breakage. I think I spent over 8 minutes on each strip just slowly stretching it out so it would not break. Just keep it straight and dont twist. I was able to remove both strips intact and thus did not need to pry the battery. Because I was able to do this method, I left the screen attached and saved a few steps (I was not trying to save time, just did not want to create additional problems by removing and reconnecting various ribbons). I think slow and steady will be your best friend. I did not heat up the adhesive or case.

One of the trickier parts, mine tore as soon as I tried on both.

I would definitely recommend heating the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to this step. The first time I tried pulling the first strip, it broke off almost instantly. I then heated the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes and was able to remove the 2nd strip as described in the instructions above. I was then able to retrieve the 1st strip using a pair of tweezers and remove it as described above.

The first white strip ripped right off before any of it pulled loose. I was extra careful with the second one and got 2/3 of it off before it broke. Heating the back side of the phone probably would have helped. I didn’t think there was any hope of getting the battery out until I read the comments here. Here is what I did, I took an iron and used it to heat up a 5 lb metal weight so it would stay warm for a while. I put the phone on the heated weight to keep it warm. I took dental floss and worked it under the battery to try and work the white strip loose. At the same time I used a plastic credit card/door key to work the battery up from the side. I eventually worked the plastic card under the back edge and worked my way deeper in until I was able to get it loose. When I got it loose it looked like the white strip was wadded up underneath the battery. I don’t think I had a chance of getting the strips up by just pulling.

Both my strips broke at about 5-10 cm of pulling. Heart sank. I repeated the following: heat from hair dyer for about 1 min until the case was hot to touch, IKEA card edge to pry the battery along its length, reheating when the case cooled. Moved onto a stiffer/ thicker credit card type item once I could get it under the battery. Took me about 20-25 mins but with new confidence it could easily be done in 10 minute; I erred on caution since first time. I just used two 3 mm wide strip of double sided tape to secure the battery. Once i removed the film I heated up the case once again the soften the new adhesive before placing the battery. Working fine.

Just broke the two strips of double sided tape. Look at the pictures well here. Pull the strips out a long way (i.e. the length of the battery or more) before you try to move them around the sides of the battery. One they are pulled out that far, becareful as you try to manurer them around the batter as they are now fragile and can break / tear easily. I was able to use a very thin flexible but strong ID card to wedge under the battery and with some effort (careful effort) I was able to pry the tape from under the battery. Half of the tape was still too strong and the battery came out with half of the battery casing left on the bottom case of the phone. Very strong tape the original tape

2 - iPhone 6 devices to replace batteries on. First was a total MESS! Strips broke - immediately! After much gentle prying, plastic cards, blue picks and dental floss, I got the bloody thing out! Second iPhone, I came at it differently. Used my iOpener (heater) to warm the whole phone for about 40 minutes. Peeled up the black “top edge” of the first strip, and it was then I noticed the top side white adhesive is NOT connected to the bottom side. Only the black film makes the connection on the factory battery. I was very gentle with that tab - until I saw the white strip start to appear from under the battery. I then became MUCH more deliberate with my pulling. No going back in (sticky stuff gets stuck on the battery edge) just smooth, steady pulling of the (warm) strip. As about an inch was exposed, I replaced my pulling fingers back near the edge of the battery without allowing any slack. More and more adhesive came out, and each time I repositioned my grasp. Finally - snap, and the strip was gone!

The iFixit youtube video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtK7b_pqnCU) shows a method of pulling the adhesive around the bottom, side, and top of the battery. I did this for the first adhesive. The one caution with that approach is that, as you’re pulling the adhesive, it could get caught on surrounding components and that could cause a break if you’re not careful. For the second adhesive I pulled it only in the direction away from the bottom of the phone (as shown in Step 21) and that was MUCH simpler. As you’re pulling the adhesive, even if a slight tear occurs in the process, keep at it with a slow and steady motion to remove as much as you can. Thankfully the adhesive strips came off completely in my repair.

That was fun!! I removed the volume side adhesive strip first. It broke immediately, but I was able to get it started again with the tweezers. It came right out. The inside strip was another story. It also broke immediately and I couldn’t get it started again with tweezers or anything. Since the volume side strip was out I used the black spudger tool to slowly start wedging the battery up and then I used a gift card to work the battery the rest of the way out. The gift card was not as thick as a credit card but was stiff enough to work the adhesive without bending the battery too much.

I think I had the extra-sticky and seriously old tape on my phone. The tape disintegrated at this part for me. Very frustrating. Use a double strand of dental floss and if need be, that black plastic scraper. Be patient and keep working on it. Set it down for a few if you’re ready to chuck the phone across the room and come back when you’ve settled down. Crying is optional.

Actually the stripes come off very easily. All u need is a little Patience. Keep´em low around the edges when you pull. What helped a lot was grapping them very thight and close to the battery.

The most important part is to stay Patient. Changing the battery and the Display took me about 2 hours including cleaning up in the inside. Thanks a lot for the manual  guys !

Removing the vibrator and heating the phone before removing the old adhesive strips was the ticket! The extra room was good and the strips pulled right out after heating. I just used my wife’s hair dryer.

I didn’t see the part about removing the vibrator till after snapping the ends off the adhesive strips. I don’t think I snagged the strips on it, but extra room to work is a good idea. The strips didn’t stretch hardly at all before the ends snapped off. The tweezers that come with your repair kit are pointy, while in the video, they are blunt with rounded corners. I think the points punctured the strips and caused them to rip. I had to heat it over a light bulb and use the long black spudger to pry it loose. I ended up bending and puncturing the battery, but no harm was done. I recommend, lots of heat to soften adhesive, remove the vibrator and use blunt/rounded tweezers.

I been doing electronics for forty years now the battery strip adhesive if possible must be applied correctly as it aiding heat transfer from the battery through back casing being like a heatsink it’s white in colour similar to heat transfer compounds in normal use the phone will have moments when it gets a little warm this adhesive strip for battery must be the correct strip for the battery using double sided sticky tape does not do the same thing as the correct battery strip

At the end of the day this repair will ALWAYS be about pulling the white stretchy adhesive tape out from under the battery to release it without damage to the strips or the battery. I have not always been successful in this exercise. But this time, as recommended, I removed the “vibration” block and used a number of short pieces of painter’s tape to created a series of better pulling “devices.” After getting a slow-but-reasonable start, once several inches emerged I used the 3/4” wide x 2+” long pieces of tape, carefully applied to both sides of the two strips, to “combine” them and form a unified “grab point.” Removing the “vibration” block allowed me to reduce my pull angle to an wonderfully shallow degree. I was then able to slowly-but-surely pull out both adhesive strips. Moving those strips in tandem allowed me to successfully release of the battery from the iPhone.

Removing the sticky strips: Take the head off a matchstick. Lift up the end of one sticky strip as per instructions. Hold the matchstick so that it’s parallel with the bottom edge of the battery and wrap the end of the sticky strip around the matchstick. Pull the matchstick+tape up/back a bit. Roll the matchstick to wrap more tape around it and pull up/back on the strip using your middle fingertip. Wrap, pull, wrap, pull, repeat until the end of the tape comes through.

Use a new matchstick for the second sticky strip.

It’s like how bakers roll a Swiss roll, in reverse.

The white "Command" type adhesive band broke, but was able to reach it with tweezers in the First Aid kit. Winding the adhesive around the tweezers with gentle tension allowed me to pull it all out and then the battery was "free".

The 2nd one did break loose on me, but I was able to pick it up with the sweet tweezers provided with the Repair Tools kit. It took a few tries, but I was able to snag an edge and pull the strip back successfully.

Heat the back of the phone before trying to pull the adhesive, makes it much easier.

To heat the back of my phone I opened a console on my laptop and had it run a ridiculous computation, then put my phone underneath.

Before you put in the new battery (with the new adhesive strips on it), be sure to bend the pre-bend the battery connector cable!!!! (In the same pattern as the old battery!!!!) Will save you a big headache when trying to reconnect the battery connector cable.

Pull slowly, do not rush it and it will be fine.

I agree with Jonathan MacIntyre . Heat the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to do this and the strips come off much easier! I didn’t heat it at first and I almost broke off the first strip. (I was able to recover it later on with the tweezers after heating it with a heating pad.) The strips came out much easier after heating!

Both adhesive tabs broke for me. I ended up starting with the hairdryer then trying floss and then a plastic card which was too flimsy. In the end I used the plastic wedging tool to pry the battery up and hold it there. With the battery raised, on the side closest to the phone edge I was able to scrape the adhesive strip together enough with the tweezers and then my fingers to pull at it laterally stretching it so that it came away in one piece. The battery was slightly dented and bent, but not punctured at this point. The second strip near the logic board was much higher and necessitated bending the battery much more and just holding it there. I couldn't get the battery up enough for fear of a puncture so I just held it there as the adhesive slowly detached itself and in the end the battery just popped free. Not sure if the warming from the hair dryer made any difference.

I used an ID card (without magnetic strip) just like the picture above to wedge the battery up to reach the broken adhesive strip.

This part is where I almost gave up. The strips broke, I tried to pry it out, then I heated the back with a hair dryer. I used an ID card and got under it and shimmied left and right until the battery was able to break look from the strips. Afterwards the battery was bent which concerned me it could just break. At this point I realized, yes, Apple does not want you to get in their phones. After it came out all went well and was glad to have finished this.

For me the strips broke and I had to use credit card to detach the battery. This is quite tricky thing.

Cool trick, used hair dryer and gentle persuasions.

Be careful if you have failed to pull out the adhesive near logic board. Since the cable responsible for power button and mic near the back cam lays above apple’s logo plate, when you pull out the battery with logo plate sticked with it, you may damage the cable. Mine cable was damaged in this way.

Used the floss technique and damaged the volume control cable. Fortunately complete cable and button assembly is a $9 part on Amazon.

If u read the instructions in advance this is where u consider not doing this. Getting the battery away from the adhesive strips is a bear. The floss idea is a joke.

Battery removal with adhesive stuck under the battery using floss personal record was around 10 minutes.

using fishing line worked well for me. the wire was cutting into the battery pack and dental floss would not work.

I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.

Both adhesive strips broke despite heating. Then the floss broke. Likewise, here is where I almost gave up. Used an old credit card gently, and bent the battery a little bit with constant fear that I would be starting a fire. Some patience, and with a few minutes, it was out.

If you need to use dental floss, use the thin type and double strand it. Have extra on hand in case that breaks.

Hardest part. The adhesive is extremely… adhesive. Dentalt floss didn’t work, credit card bent out of shape. By this time the battery was already bent to the point where I could use the tweezers to pull the white tape sideways from under the battery. Being strong tape, I was able to pull it out along the side of the battery all the way. That was actually easy. Strangely there seemed to be only one strip.

YOU have to remove the VIBRATOR so it does not CUT the strips. Keep grabbing up close after pulling some out. these are over 2 feet long so be gentle..pull low and away, not up ever. Good Luck!

That was hard to remove but I did it. Be careful about the lower frame edges, it’s so sharp, it cut my finger.

Ich habe gleich den Weg gewählt, den Akku zu erwärmen (mit dem Föhn von unten) und dann denn Akku vorsichtig mit einem Kunststoffspachtel rausgehebelt! (Das riskante entfernen der Stecker für Display und Touch habe ich nicht gemacht...ging auch so gut!)

Got it working turned it off now it doesn't want to turn on!!

You should add a comment about the best way (environmentally) to dispose of this battery.

Pre-bend the new battery connector cable! If doing this again I would make sure I had pre-bent the connector cable the same way as the original battery is bent. I did not and then once the new battery was glued down I could not get at it well to bend it properly. I had to wedge the extra cable in a bit and then the very small extra thickness left a small color distortion on the screen due to the additional pressure on the back of the display.

Es posible que al instalar una batería no original falle a continuación él detector de huella en un iPhone 6 ?

Yeah, the glue tab part is where this is not realistic to do yourself… mine tore off and now the battery is stuck in there, with no way to get it out and now voided. Your special tools are a joke.

Assuming I get through this procedure, are we supposed to cycle the battery a certain way?

I agree with the comment about pre-bending the cable first. I didn’t look close enough at the original battery and it looked like the replacement battery had a completely different cable. Then I realized that the cable turned up 180 degrees and then bent over 90 degrees.

I’m amazed my phone works after all this. I must have done just about everything wrong. Good luck to everyone attempting this. My next phone will be an Android, just not yet now that I’ve successfully replaced the battery.

Warming the back of the phone was the only way I could remove the adhesive strips. If cold, the adhesive strips do not release and break easily. Once warmed up, the improvement in ease of removal was amazing. I think this should be the starting point unless you live in a really hot place

The battery replacement went off without a hitch, but now I have no speaker sound. I still have earpiece and headphones sound, but no speaker. I’m trouble shooting now, but does anyone have any ideas? I’ve cleaned my headphones jack, checked my ringer is on etc. etc. Doing the most recent software update now ( hadn’t done it yet), but could just replacing the battery cause my speaker to be damaged? I didn’t even touch anything near where the speaker is housed. ???

Replacing iphone6 battery with out using heat gun, will it spoil the battery? Thank’s

Great kit! Simple to follow instructions made an intimidating task a breeze to accomplish. I highly recommend this kit to any owner of an iPhone to replace their own battery. An added bonus is the tools you have after the job for future use. They’re handy for glasses and other items with miniature screws besides phones. Overall an easy task with everything needed to complete the job in a professional manner. AAA+++

A few weeks I brought my 6S to Best Buy and let them replace it for $49. They are a certified Apple repair agent. Not worth my time or risk of breaking the phone. Just my preference and opinion.

I found it beyond helpful to have the old battery and its connector to compare it to the way the replacement arrived. This told me approximately what the exact shape the replacement cable ought be configured/pre-bent into to successfully reconnect it to where it must go in the iPhone.

Just be warned that the Battery I received was absolutely dead flat- no residual charge at all.

Just to check that I hadn’t messed up any connections I dismantled it again.

In desperation I put it on charge and it worked!!!!

The iPhone 6 that I replaced the battery in did not have the dual adhesive strips at the end of the battery but rather a single narrow adhesive strip under the center of the battery. I had to heat up the back case and then pry the battery out by wedging a spudger tool under to work it lose.